Montana’s Top Winter Drives

BY Sean Jansen

Montanans as a whole are an outdoorsy bunch. We are outside given whatever is thrown down from the heavens. Be it rain, shine, or snow. The age-old saying of, “Montana has two seasons, winter and July,” doesn’t give us a lot of options anyways to be picky about the weather. However, we all have those lazy days. Those days that we woke so comfortably that we want the laziness to last all day. Montana’s winters can do that to even the hardiest of individuals. However, work still needs to be done 12 months a year and the snowplow drivers work 24/7 and at times 300 days a year to keep our favorite roads open for our use. We are leaving out some great ones, but for those open year-round, here are our favorite drives to enjoy in winter.

Highway 191-West Yellowstone to Bozeman

Now for those that commute daily from Bozeman to Big Sky and back may disagree fully with the choice as the lines of traffic during a given workweek or fresh powder day at Big Sky may think that the road is a living hell. But if you gaze beyond the taillights of the car in front of you, creating the grip on the steering wheel to tighten and teeth to grind, the road winds its way following one of the most beautiful rivers in Montana. Slithering its way through the Gallatin National Forest and into a section of Yellowstone National Park is one of the only byways that connect us to Idaho and Wyoming. Through some thick forested and wildlife enriched corridors is a winter wonderland drive to be had. (Note: I wasn’t joking about the traffic. Enjoy the drive midday or on a weekend for a more pleasurable experience.)

Highway 287- West Yellowstone to Ennis

Cruising next to the giant frozen ice rink of Hebegen Lake, then further carving its way past Quake Lake and ultimately following one of the greatest trout streams on the planet, Highway 287 is a show stopper with scenery from any window of the car. A gaze over to the river or up into the Madison/Gallatin Range and out of the peripheries a moose gallops across the road. In the field, a herd of elk grazes on the grass sticking out of the snow and the town of Ennis beckons the old cowboy life. With another ice-skating rink of a lake at the end to top it all off, this may be one of my personal favorite drives to make in winter.

Highway 86- Livingston to Gardiner and beyond

This highway cruises through a place called Paradise Valley…enough said. A highway adjacent to the mighty Yellowstone River with the magnificent Absaroka-Beartooth Mountains to the east, making for a dangerous highway for the driver to focus on the road. With wide-open vistas and wildlife everywhere, for any Montanan, this place is still as jaw-dropping the first to the thousandth visit. With it being the only highway that gives access to Yellowstone National Park in winter, enjoy the splendors of the Lamar Valley onward from the highway and into Cooke City for those that wish to keep driving.

Highway 93 – Missoula to Sula

Leaving the college town of Missoula and meandering through Lolo, Highway 93 sits nestled along the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. With sweeping mountain views, a wildlife refuge, hot springs, and the Bitterroot River, few drives in Montana offer this many attractions and distractions to keep the driver and passengers occupied.

Highway 2 – Whitefish to East Glacier Park Village

Didn’t get the chance to explore Glacier National Park this summer? Well, the good news is that it is still open, and it is much quieter than summer. Highway 2 from Whitefish to East Glacier Park Village is a stunning drive offering mountain views with every curve and a good chance at spotting wildlife. Be advised before your drive as road conditions can change rapidly, exposing them to immediate closing. But if they are open, it will surely be an unforgettable road trip.

Preparing Not to Fail

by Doug Stevens, “The Graytrekker”

My main outdoor focus is being an avid backpacker and backcountry landscape photographer.  Even though I do get out and do things in the winter, like skiing, etc., late Spring through Fall is my favorite time.  Therefore, I find I spend a lot of time in the winter planning and preparing for the seasons ahead.  Before retiring, it was important to have a plan for my time off work to maximize my opportunities to get out.  While I no longer have that schedule to consider, going into late Spring with a plan is just as important.

Over the years, I have learned that there are a lot of variables that go into a successful trip and a successful backpacking season.  For example, knowing what kind of snowpack we have can affect when you can get into certain places in the high country – should I plan on July or August?  It can also be a predictor of possible fire season.  I have had several well-planned trips severely impacted by smoke from summer wildfires, such as in Glacier National Park from the Howe Ridge fire in 2018 [http://www.distinctlymontana.com/node/40298]. 

You can monitor the snowpack and precipitation through the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) web site for Montana, or any other state for that matter [https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/nrcs/mt/sno/].  This site not only gives area snowpack on a “basin” level, but there are also web sites for individual backcountry electronic monitoring stations, known as “snotels”.  I keep an eye on these sites throughout late Winter and early Spring and have back-up trips planned to other areas in case my first choices are negatively impacted by too much or too little snow. As with investing, diversity is important.

Then there is the matter of just where to go.  I have been to several places in Montana that were simply stunning and I would love to return, but at the same time, I would like to also explore new ones, so I shoot for a balance – some old, some new.  I spend time in January and February pawing through hiking books of various places, such as, the Bob Marshall Wilderness, Beartooths and Glacier National Park to get an idea of where to go.  Anyone who has taken any time looking through bookshelves at places like local REI stores or Barnes and Noble will recognize the yellow color of the Falcon Guides – probably the most ubiquitous of all hiking books in Montana (and other western states, as well) [http://falcon.com/].   

What trip planning is complete without a good set of maps?  I know some people are more comfortable with a GPS, but I never go anywhere without a compass and map – you never have to worry about the battery.  There are many sources for maps.  There are the “old fashioned” USGA 7.5 minute quadrangle topo maps [https://www.usgs.gov/products/maps/topo-maps] and each national forest publishes maps of their forest [https://www.fs.usda.gov/visit/maps].  These latter are particularly useful for navigating the back roads in the national forests to get to trailheads.  Lately, new companies have been offering maps, such as Beartooth Publishing [https://www.beartoothpublishing.com/]. and National Geographic publishes trail maps, as well [https://www.natgeomaps.com/trail-maps].  These are great maps and, unlike USGA topo maps, they are printed on waterproof paper.  National Geographic also offers USGS topo maps for free pdf download, so you could print your own maps. [https://www.natgeomaps.com/trail-maps/pdf-quads].  Finally, I like to check out various backpacking YouTubers, just to get an idea of the scenery they pass through in their videos.

Another thing I always check is whether an area is dog-friendly.  Obviously, dogs are not allowed in the national parks backcountry, but some wilderness areas can be “leash only” or no leash.  I have a four-legged trail companion, and it debatable whether she likes coming on my trips more than I enjoy having her company.  Therefore, I always put in the research to find out the applicable dog regulations so she can come with me.

Finally, there is being in shape to successfully complete the planned trips.  I can certainly attest, every year gets a bit harder, so its important for me to have a training plan.  With the mild winter, we have had this year, there hasn’t been the skiing and other activities I usually do.  However, it may mean being able to get on the trails earlier and put in as many miles as I can with a training pack, for my dog and I.  Not only does she need training, too, but its important that dogs be conditioned to long walks on rocky terrain by building up the thickness of their pads.  Often the softer surfaces over winter result in her losing some of this, leaving her possibly at risk for foot injury.  We don’t want cut paws in the backcountry, though I do carry the necessary first aid for her as well as myself.

To sum up, a successful, fulfilling backcountry season requires a certain level of planning and preparation.  It's important to take to heart the popular adage often attributed to Benjamin Franklin: “By failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail”.  Personally, I use this time to be sure I am preparing NOT to fail.

Happy Trails!

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Top 5 Activities for the Montana Winter Solstice
    `Sean Jansen

Winter Solstice in Montana is day of mixed emotions. Some of us love the day,waiting for it since the height of summer. While others loathe it. Hating the first snow fall and counting down each and every day following December 21st as each days gets lighter and longer. Whether you’re a die hard powder fan, cold weather enthusiast, or brand new to the scene, here are our top five activities to celebrate the shortest day of the year with. 

Get On A Mountain

Obviously with the arrival of old man winter, there are few activities greater than waxing up the skis or snowboard, grabbing that lift ticket, and hitting the slopes of your favorite mountain. Though the forecast throughout Montana looks like a fresh dumping of snow may not be in our luck for this solstice, the snow pack from all the storms previous should make even the grumpiest of one time skiers and snowboards have a smile.

Grab Your Fishing Rod

Though the height of winter typically screams for every layer known to man, a fresh dumping of snow, or tea and whiskey by the fire, the thought of grabbing your flyrod, waders, and fishing license are hardly on the list. But that is also the point. It is looking like the day should be relatively sunny throughout the state and above freezing. Making for the best conditions one could ask for on a Montana winter day. Gather up your midge patterns and stoneflies and get out there earning those pulls of whiskey from the flask.

Lace Up Those Running and Hiking Shoes

There is something to be said about the delicate crunch beneath your feet with each step in the snow. Most of the trails around town and even those that go deeper into the wilderness have some hard pack to enjoy a nice walk or even run despite the snow on the ground. Listen to the wind in the trees, the squirrels as they still gather their acorns, or maybe the curious deer or rabbit roaming the woods. What better way to enjoy the solstice than to get outside and enjoy the same trails we do in all other seasons.

Embrace the Dark

It is the shortest daylight of the year, so why not celebrate the darkness? Stay up all night and gaze up at the night sky and ponder the life that continues to happen without the sun. Grab the headlamp and walk around the neighborhood, enjoying the Christmas lights and fellow friends with conversation. Snuggle up and binge watch the favorite winter movies or ski clips to amp for the next powder day. The sunlight day length of the winter can spell the wintertime blues for many, but just because the sun goes down doesn’t mean your day should end. Fire up that snow mobile and snow cat. Drive on over to town pump, fill up those gas cans and fuel tanks, and go and get your adrenaline pumping. Countless trails and dirt roads that we all enjoy in the summer are now blocked with gates or feet of snow, impeding our four wheels and two legs to our favorite destinations. No more. Start that engine, put that helmet on, and get out into the wild and smile. Every day from here on out will get longer and longer for the next six months.

Introduction

Ask anyone along the streets of Montana how they spend their free time and chances are, they’ll say something along the lines of watching Netflix or scrolling on social media. While Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook seem like a girl’s best friend in the twenty-first century, there are plenty of other engaging and more meaningful ways to pass the time.

So ladies, put your phones down and switch off the television — here are five interesting hobbies to consider spending your downtime on. We trust that you’ll find them therapeutic and fun at the same time, and you might even learn a new skill or two.

1. Photography

The first hobby that’s easy to pick up is photography. When you think of a photographer, you might imagine someone in a large studio space, or someone carrying tons of bulky and expensive equipment. Confusing cameras and niche jargon might even come to mind.

Well, that’s a misconception that many people have about photography. Contrary to what many believe, you don’t need heavy equipment or special cameras to engage in this hobby. In fact, all you need is probably already in your palm right now.

Phone cameras, especially smartphone cameras, will do just fine when it comes to amateur photography. They’re light, easily accessible, and easy to use as well. You probably already know how to operate your phone camera for selfies and pictures.

That said, if you decide to take this on as a hobby for real, do spend some time researching the functions of your camera. These days, there are so many functions to explore and play with, including effects, filters, and even adjustable lighting or focus. You can even research on what are good angles to take pictures from, or what settings work best for the environment you’re in.

To take this hobby up a notch, consider learning some editing skills to touch up pictures you’ve taken. Simple phone apps or software work fine and will take your pictures to the next level.

2. Baking

The kitchen is a place of almost unlimited potential. If you’ve only been using it for making dinners, why not try using it for baking, too? It’s a challenging hobby, one that requires lots of patience and learning, but it’s an enjoyable one nonetheless. The best part? You won’t have to go to the confectionery store anymore, with brownies, cupcakes, doughnuts, and all other sweet treats made from your kitchen instead.

Admittedly, some recipes are much harder than others, so try starting with simple recipes. A protip is to look at the number of ingredients needed for the recipe. Usually, the lesser the number of ingredients, the easier the recipe is. Delicious cakes like carrot cake and cheesecakes can be easily made under an hour, or brownies and chocolate chip cookies for chocolate-lovers.

You don’t have to worry about not having an oven, either, with many no-bake dessert recipes available online. These include lots of things like no-bake banana pudding, no-bake tarts, and even no-bake pies! Simply look up the recipes, get the ingredients, and voila, you’re ready to start this new and tantalizing hobby in no time.

3. Blogging

When you were younger, you probably read magazines and interesting columns like Aunt Agony or opinion pieces. Now with technology, anyone can start writing their own blogs, too, including you! This hobby is great, especially for those who love communicating, sharing new ideas and penning down thoughts.

Think of your blog as an open journal — you can write about anything you want, whether it’s about baking, exercising, clothes, or even your opinions on current affairs. It can either be public or private, depending on what you are more comfortable with. You can even choose only certain friends to be privy to your musings if you prefer.

To get started, what you’ll need is an account on a blogging site. You can create one on either mobile or desktop for free on sites like Wix, Wordpress, Medium, or Weebly. Each has its own specialty, so feel free to do some research and explore before getting started. For example, Wordpress is great for easy setup and zero site maintenance on your part but tends to have ads and limited monetization options. In comparison, Wix has beautiful templates and images, but with limited traffic and storage capabilities. And with all things online, you might even consider playing a game or two on the latest sites if you happen to encounter a writer’s block while blogging.

4. Art and Crafts

If using words is not really your thing, not to fret as you can still easily express yourself with arts and crafts. There are plenty of options for you from painting to pottery. You can even start with something really simple like drawing and sketching with materials you already have in your home.

A great aspect of art is that you can opt to do it alone or in a group, depending on what you like. Individually, all you need is the materials and a chunk of time to just invest in your art. It’s okay if you start off a little rusty or if your art doesn’t look as good as you had thought it would — all it takes is patience and practice. Try setting up a routine if possible, or a fixed time to work on your art every day.

Alternatively, doing art in a group is also an option as you can find many art classes in your city. Art classes are good especially for mediums that require a lot of materials, such as pottery with electric spinning wheels, clay, and glazing services. With classes, you’ll get access to these otherwise expensive materials, not to mention a community of fellow art-lovers to do it with.

5. Gardening

Nowadays with easy grow kits, you don’t need a green thumb to be a gardener. Unlike in the past where gardening involved a ton of heavy lifting and back-breaking work, today, gardening can be an extremely therapeutic and satisfying hobby to have.

There are endless variations of plants you can choose to have in your backyard, be it flowers, fruits, herbs, vegetables, and even trees. Before you start your gardening hobby, it’s a good idea to plan what you would like to see and what grows well in your area. For example, tropical plants like cane and palm trees grow very well in humid areas, while flowering plants like catmint and pansies grow well in colder environments.

Another plus point about gardening is that you can easily involve your family. Spend hours playing with your children in the garden, and eventually perhaps even serving and eating the yummy fruits of your labor.

Conclusion

All in all, these five hobbies are great ways to pass the time apart from staring at digital screens all day. From photography to baking, they are meaningful and productive and will make your days that much more enjoyable.