So Many Ways to Love Fall in Montana

By Lacey Middlestead

Lacey MiddlesteadLacey Middlestead is a Montana native and freelance writer currently living in Helena, Mont. She loves meeting new people and helping share their stories. When she’s not busy writing articles for newspapers like the Independent Record and Helena Vigilante, she can usually be found indulging in her second greatest passion–playing in the Montana wilderness. She loves skiing and snowmobiling in the winter and four wheeling, hiking, boating, and riding dirt bikes in the summer.

The other night I felt restless and soon found myself driving out of town---windows down, music cranked and belting out Bon Jovi’s “Living on a Prayer.” The sky was stunningly clear with heaven’s light bulbs strung about. It was one of those nights Montanans count themselves blessed for living in the Big Sky state. I found myself thinking about Fall and the flurry of color it always arrives in. There’s no doubt it’s a beautiful time of year and that alone makes it one of my favorite season. But as I felt the gentle fall air twirl through my hair, I realized I love Fall for a whole strew of other reasons I never realized.

1. Fall arrives in a slow but glorious style…like the love you think you’ll never find but that sneaks up and transforms your whole existence before you even have a chance to catch your breath.

2. Strung haphazardly between the gentlest and harshest seasons, Fall compels you to slow down finally and just appreciate all the things you too often take for granted.

3. Fall reminds us that the only predictable thing in life is that it is ever-changing. Whether in good times or bad, take comfort in knowing this day you’re living right now will never be the same as the one before it or the one after.

4. Patience….my goodness how much Fall has taught me about patience. The leaves adorning nature’s fragile limbs become their most beautiful not when they first bud in the spring, but just before they witness their last sunset and drift to the ground in an accepted passing away. For me, Fall’s leaves reminds me that sometimes the shiniest moments in our life come seemingly at the end of things. Remember, the best may very well be ahead of us.

5. Fall leaves us ambitious and wanting more. In summer it’s so easy to get caught up in the nice weather and endless days. When Fall descends we know winter is approaching and we scramble to get in our final hikes in the mountains and grill the last pounds of hamburger over the barbeque on the deck. In between all the doing, we also start fantasizing about the spring and summer of next year and all of the new and fantastical journeys we will find ourselves on.

6. Fall is the only season of the year that I can actually feel. There’s always that one day when I step outside in the morning and feel the seasons click and the calendar page turn.

7. The beauty of the colors and dancing leaves is overt and demanding….you literally can’t help but pause to appreciate it.

8. So many intoxicating sounds accompany Fall. There’s crunchy leaves, corn stalks rustling with the breeze, the whack and thud of wood being chopped, the clap of guns being fired by hopeful hunters and that soft morning silence of a season that is simply at peace with things.

9. Pumpkin. That most unique and tantalizing of flavors that is so special that it is reserved for only a few months out of the year. I cherish every latte, slice of pie and whipped frosting tinted with its warm flavors and spices.

10. Fall is the most grateful of seasons. In America, we have an entire national holiday designated just for thankfulness. But I think we are all grateful during fall for the adventurous summer we are wrapping up and for the bounty of blessing we hope life will bestow on us in the new year.

Fall, it would seem, is my very favorite season after all.

 

"Prayer for the Bear" in Yellowstone

grizzly bearsMembers of several American Indian tribes plan to gather in Yellowstone this weekend to protest any move by the federal government to remove grizzly bears from endangered species protection.

Grizzly numbers have rebounded in Yellowstone and Grand Teton in recent decades but the bears remain protected under the Endangered Species Act as a threatened species.

The "Prayer for the Bear" event is scheduled for 9 a.m. Saturday at Sedge Bay on Yellowstone Lake.

Event organizer Sara Mathuin said 26 American Indian nations have ancestral connections to Yellowstone. Mathuin said the general public is welcome to attend the protest.

 MORE>>>Billings Gazette

Big Sky Tourism is Now Off the Charts

Big Sky MontanaTourism has bounced back with vigor in Big Sky, where it’s grown at a faster rate than both the state and the country.

Numbers cobbled together by Visit Big Sky, a nonprofit destination-marketing group formed in 2013, show that the resort town’s lodging tax collections have increased by double digits for the past three years. In 2013, the increase in collections at Big Sky was nearly quadruple that of the state and roughly 10 times larger than the nation, according to figures the group collected from the American Hotel & Lodging Association and the Montana Department of Commerce. Lodging tax collections increased through the first half of 2014 at a rate triple that of the state.

 MORE>>>Bozeman Chronicle

The 10 Best Places to Live in Montana?

West YellowstoneThe Last Best Place; it’s a nickname that more than one million people in Montana know well. But even in the Last Best Place there are some areas that are just better than others—the Best Places in the Last Best Place, if you will.

As part of an ongoing series exploring the best places to live in each of the 50 states, Movoto Real Estate gathered data to learn which place in Montana is truly the the best; the real Last Best Place. After we sifted through our data, we concluded that West Yellowstone took home the top prize. Still, West Yellowstone isn’t the only place to make the cut. Here are the 10 best cities in Montana, the treasures of The Treasure State:

1. West Yellowstone

2. Colstrip

3. East Helena

4. Baker

5. Big Timber

6. Helena

7. Sidney

7. Havre

7. Shelby

10. Cut Bank

10. Manhattan

MORE>>>Moveto.com

Caring for Critters 101

By Kathleen Clary Miller

Kathleen Clary MillerKathleen Clary Miller has written 300+ columns and stories for periodicals both local and national, and has authored three books (www.amazon.com/author/millerkathleenclary). She lives in the woods of the Ninemile Valley, thirty miles west of Missoula.

Soon after moving to and meeting new neighbors in Montana, I was politely asked if I would be interested in caring for their animals while they traveled.  My Southern California upbringing had taken me as far as a dog, a parakeet, and those little turtles that swim through elaborate structures plopped into a plastic habitat.  I’d scooped kibble and sprinkled fish flakes, and despite the motherly instinct that relishes in a child’s eating having kicked in at age ten, and having consequently amply overfed them more than once, they managed to survive.

Nestled in the Ninemile Valley, there is no lack of wildlife.  Deer lounge lazily on our patch of grass and act as nature’s gardeners as they trim low branches from trees and shrubs.  Spotted fawns are introduced into the world three feet from my bedroom window; I crouch and peer over the low sill to ogle them taking wobbly first steps.  Mind you, no one mentioned these bucolic creatures were also the source of startling hisses from within the trees—I still jump whenever ambushed by their “keep out” warning while out for an otherwise peaceful stroll.

    Bears have more than once dragged our sturdy trashcan into the woods so far that my husband and I play “Where’s Waldo?” as we search for what we know we should recognize but cannot spot for the life of us.  Occasionally we glimpse a bobcat or a fox streaking by on the game trail behind our back patio, and once while my husband was away a brazen Tom turkey strutted right up to the back window and pecked obsessively until I sent an email to my PhD Zoologist friend who informed me in short order, “He wants to have sex with you!”   Thank God for glass.

Animal life is part of the everyday scene here, but to date it had been “Look; don’t touch.”  We’d hearkened to what residents affectionately call “our elk herd” bugling at dawn.  Coyotes circled their prey and howled like banshees long after we were cozily under the covers at night.  

My only hands-on contact with anything that breathes other than my husband had involved the discarding of dead mice; I’d finally reached the point where I could deal with the pesky invaders.  After steeling myself to keep from flinching, I could ease back the spring bar to set traps.  In fact, when it came to ensnaring them I’d turned the corner from disgust to determination.  Heady with the thrill of the hunt, now whenever I heard that satisfying snap I did a pump fist and woke our dead-to-the-world dog (It’s amazing he isn’t really dead since for the first year of his life I neglected to wear my glasses and filled the kibble cup with what turned out to be twice his daily requirement).  I hooted and hollered in a celebratory dance like a rookie tight end who has just completed the tie-breaking overtime touchdown.  Still unfulfilled, however, was my “Big Valley” daydream—the one I’d engaged in ever since the onset of the TV series wherein I feed and groom the horses, herd milk cows to the barn, and sprinkle chicken feed on the good earth.

    What a stroke of luck to have it laid before me!  I could look in on two llamas, two steers, a horse, three rabbits, and an assortment of chickens, the perk being not only my anticipated sense of rancher pride but fresh eggs for the taking.  

    Picture my hopped-up-on-farm-girl-fantasy about to become reality—the key word being “reality.”

After embracing my mission, I found myself behind a sliding (so surprisingly heavy!) barn door with seconds to spare as two exceedingly large, snorting cows rapidly approached from the pasture.  I’d been instructed by neighbor Jim to “get ‘er done” before they hemmed me in like kicking bullies.  I should quickly heave a brick of hay to the horse, climb a corral fence to access rabbits, and lift the door to the chicken coop to gather eggs.  Could I wade through the quicksand muck quickly enough to cross a barn, pocket eggs, hurdle the rabbit fence and get back before the heavy snorting I already heard (from something other than me) was upon me?  It had seemed so easy when Jim was showing me.

Fortunately barns are not equipped with closed circuit cameras.  Unrecorded is me taking off as if I were sprinting from bull horns in the streets of Pamplona.  I hurl hay to the horse, entirely missing the container for it (whatever that’s called), pivot, snatch four eggs, pivot, scale the rabbit fence to dump food and slosh water, then tromp back through the barn, my upper body so far ahead of my lower slowed by sludge that I nearly fall flat on my face in every manner of manure.  This animal-minding business is a minefield.

In the nick of time.  Just as I clear the barn door big bull bodies (named Cow and Boy) clash and clamor at my heels.  These guys didn’t look so large on television!

    When I turned towards the safety of my car, my little handled egg-bag in hand, two large llama faces were nose to nose with me, their hot, bad breath steamed my glasses, and the scream that emanated from my mouth as they simultaneously spit at me was surely heard from the Ninemile Valley over the Reservation Divide and into Idaho.  Osama and Bin Llama (Jim possesses a particular sense of humor when naming his livestock) are looking for their pellets.  I fumbled for the scoop alongside the barn and backhanded its contents with every once of strength I had.  

    Day two I was prepared, but this time when I reached into the hen house I felt feathers (how odd!) and extracted bloodied fingers.  Whoa.  Cow and Boy were galloping from farther afield, so I risked life and limb to take a gander, and discovered a hen that was suffering some sort of uterine prolapse—not that I pretend to know the location of a hen uterus or if theirs actually prolapse.  I had a friend who once experienced this medical horror, and no matter how hard I tried to dissuade her from doing so described it to me.  What I saw matched the grim details that I had desperately tried not to hear her elaborate.  Whatever it was, the bird was not only dying, but to add insult to injury her girlfriends were pecking at her like Alfred Hitchcock’s crows.  Women really are tough on each other.  I gathered my wits and asked myself, What Barbara Stanwyck do?

    Call Jim’s cell phone.  He took the news in stride and without pause told me he would send someone to “kill the chicken and get rid of the body.”  This nightmare read more like “The Godfather” than “Bonanza.”

The next time they went away and solicited my services one of the rabbits wouldn’t eat or drink.  It turned its back on me as I begged and pleaded with it to “just live one more day until your parents get home!”  Two days later, sure enough the rabbit died.  

    “I’m cursed!”  I whined, thinking it might be in both man and beasts’ best interest to fire me from any future favor.  After all, Jim and Sue reassured me it was nature’s way and all part of the circle of life; not to worry.

I thanked them for the eggs and then asked, by the way… what was the “crusty stuff” all over the shell?  These eggshells certainly appeared unlike the polished-to- gleaming ones from my childhood, delivered to the pantry door by Arden Dairy in Pasadena, California.  Even organic eggs from the Good Food Store here in Missoula didn’t have scabby spots on them.

    “Eggs come out of the same hole as everything else,” Sue informed me, I having eaten several after a brisk rinse, sans scrubbing.

    I use a brush and vinegar now whenever I clean Jim’s eggs—a ritual I don’t perform as often after requesting that I be bumped to the bottom of the caretakers list when Osama journeyed to llama heaven shortly after I’d been on call (Did I reach for the wrong pellets?).  Now I am relieved to be called upon only out of sheer desperation when local experts aren’t available, like Nathan down the road who owns horses, Ellen who feeds every life form that wanders up her driveway including wild rabbits, and in the event that some terminally ill creature requires humanitarian intervention, Walter, the chicken killer.  

    This frees me up to offer my services to anyone in the neighborhood with turtles.

Montana Top Rated for State and Local Taxes

taxesWith summer ending, the 2014 elections are starting to heat up. And as usual tax policy is a hot button issue as candidates for Governor, state legislatures and other state and local offices from both parties claim their plan is more “fair.” But what does a fair tax system look like? Which states actually have the most fair tax systems?

As a follow up to our 2014 Tax Fairness Survey which focused largely on federal tax policy, WalletHub has analyzed and ranked the 50 states based on the fairness of their state and local tax systems — including income taxes, sales & excise taxes, and property taxes. To rank the states, Wallethub conducted a nationally representative online survey of 1,050 individuals to assess what Americans think a fair state and local tax system looks like. Our analysts then compared what Americans think is fair to data on the real structure of tax systems in all 50 states.

We believe this is the first ever ranking of state and local tax fairness that matches representative data on what Americans think is fair with real data on the structure of state and local tax systems.

MORE>>>Wallethub

4 Montana Cities in Top 100 Places to Live

Our second-annual ranking of the best small to mid-sized cities in the U.S.

 As Livability’s editors and writers crisscross the U.S in search of great stories, we find that time and again, the best tales are told in the Main Street diners, corner churches, park benches and even the mayor’s offices of small to mid-sized cites and towns. Far from letting time pass them by, these communities are doubling down on livability for their residents. Our second-annual ranking of the Top 100 Best Places to Live celebrates the work they are doing. As with our Top 100 Best Place to Live 2014 ranking, we worked with globally-known partners to analyze the best public and private data sources. We were advised by the leading thinkers, writers and doers in the place-making space. Some new places make the list, some move up or down and some continue to score well, no matter what the metric. More than 2,000 cities were ranked, so every city on this list is in the top 5 percent of livable communities in the U.S. Spend some time getting to know them, and when it comes time for your next move, maybe you'll think small.

MORE>>>Livability

Autumn Photos: Be Prepared

By Jenna Caplette

Jenna CapletteJenna Caplette migrated from California to Montana in the early 1970s, first living on the Crow Indian reservation, then moving to Bozeman where she owned a downtown retail anchor for eighteen years. These days she owns Bozeman BodyTalk & Energetic Healthcare, hosts a monthly movie night, teaches and writes about many topics.

Great photo opportunities arrive when they arrive.  Here are some tips to help you to be prepared. 

First, create a camera first-aid kit with zip lock bags, a ground cloth of some kind, a light pair of running or BMX gloves, and a microfiber towel. 

  • Storing things in zip lock bags helps keep them dry. 
  • A ground cloth comes in handy to spread out gear and locate essential accessories or to dry something off. 
  • Gloves with rubber grips prevent the “whoops” of dropping something in to a snowdrift. If you do drop something – your camera, a lens – immediately dry it off with the microfiber towel and you may save it from water damage, or outright ruin.  
  • A microfiber lens cleaning cloth along with a cleaner, like Purosol Optical Molecular Lens Cleaners. 
  • A packet of Rainsleeves™ to keep your camera dry if it begins to snow, or rain. These even work when you’re using a tripod.

Then, keep your camera loaded with fresh batteries and a couple freshly formatted memory card. 

  • Cold saps batteries — put them in a pocket, next to your body, to keep them warm. Have extras on hand.
  • To protect your camera and card reader, a clean and dry memory card is essential. 

One more essential suggestion for your gear: add a polarizer. It’s lightweight, minimizes snow glare and makes clear winter skies pop. On a digital camera, you can also accomplish this by simply changing the camera's white balance to “cloudy” or “shady”. You may also want to add a high quality UV filter to protect your lens from the weather and to reduce excessive blue at high elevations.

Take a lot of images and check each on your LCD screen in the field to be sure you got the shot you wanted.  Then at the end of the day, protect your images by transferring them from your camera's flash memory to a computer and backing them up to an external drive at the end of each day.

 

Blue Herons in Red

By Kyle Ploehn

Kyle PloehnKyle Ploehn is an artist, illustrator and writer living in Billings Montana. He likes to spend the few hours he isn't painting hiking the mountains of Montana.

Continuing with the scratchboard style, I moved on to painting Blue Herons. In the mountains where my family has a cabin there is a great creek that runs all down the valley. One of my favorite things to do is hike along the creek and sketch or photograph what wildlife I come across. A variety of big birds have found home there and on lucky days I get to see them. Most commonly, I have seen this family of great big majestic sandhill cranes, but one midmorning hike I saw a bird I further down the creek that was big like the sandhills, but a striking gray-blue standing gracefully among the tangled bushes. I watched the blue heron for a while, and he watched me, then without warning he took to the sky and flew down the creek. I was so excited, as soon as I returned to my studio I laid out this painting and got to work.

 The original is still available, an 20x20, framed for $700.

 14x14 canvas prints are available for $150 and 12x12 unmatted prints are available for $45. Contact me at [email protected], if you're interested in purchasing a print. Or stop by my website at http://kyleploehnart.com

 

Carroll College Ranked Top Regional College of the West

Carroll CollegeCarroll College, for the fourth straight year, ranked as the No. 1 Regional College in the West, according to the prestigious U.S. News & World Report Best Colleges 2015 rankings.

Carroll also earned a No. 2 rank for Best Value College in the West.

U.S. News & World Report has released its Best Colleges rankings for 30 years, according to its chief data strategist Robert J. Morse. “It’s probably the most influential U.S. ranking of colleges.

“We’re the oldest, biggest and get the most views,” he said, referring to their website page views.

The rankings are a valuable tool for prospective students to more easily compare the quality of similar academic institutions. They evaluate 1,600 accredited four-year colleges on 16 indicators of academic excellence, including peer assessment, graduation and student retention rates, faculty resources, student selectivity, financial resources and alumni giving.

“It’s really remarkable,” said Carroll President Tom Evans of Carroll’s ranking. “It speaks very well to what we are doing.”

“I think the retention rate is very important,” said Evans. “I think retention rate is really important for academic rigor. It’s kind of a happiness quotient of our students -- it’s a measure of our success.”

Carroll held the top spot for Regional Colleges in the West with its 82 percent average Freshman Retention Rate.

MORE>>>Helen Independent Record