"No People' A Big Reason to Visit Montana

Montana visitorsOn a cold, rainy day in October, a husband and wife descend from the viewing platform above the Yellowstone River Canyon inside Yellowstone National Park.

“I hope the rain stops soon. We’ve been here three days and we haven’t been able to see anything,” the man says. “But at least there are no people.”

In fact, the couple were two of more than 250,000 people to enter the park in October, bringing the year’s total number of recreational visits to a record-breaking 4 million. The previous mark was 3.6 million, set in 2010.

The throngs of people flocking to the park appear to be part of a larger trend of increased tourism in the area.

Between August of last year and August 31, 2015, more than 500,000 passengers took a flight from Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport. It was the first time that any Montana airport had surpassed half a million boardings in a 12-month span. On the year, statewide boarding numbers are up almost 2 percent.

“In a region that is very dependent on air service, this is something our community can be proud of,” said Bozeman airport Director Brian Sprenger.

Though it’s hard to identify a single catalyst for the growth, strategic marketing campaigns, a long, warm summer season and an increase in foreign tourists have all been factors.

In 2014, nearly 11 million people visited the state of Montana, spending $3.9 billion. While the overall number of visitors was down, the spending increased by more than 7 percent, a tradeoff that many in the industry feel is a win-win.

“We consider that a success. If we can get fewer people to spend more money here, all the better to minimize the impact of tourism,” said Daniel Iverson, communications manager for the Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development.

The Yellowstone Region, which includes Carbon, Gallatin, Park, Stillwater and Sweet Grass counties, saw more than 3.3 million visitors last year, with 40 percent of overnight trips coming between July and September. This strong summer rush has permeated outward to communities like Big Sky, where Kitty Clemens, executive director of the Big Sky Chamber of Commerce, said she has seen a marked increase in warm weather activity.

MORE>>>Bozeman Daily Chronicle

Poet With A Mission

Brian D'AmbrosioBrian D'Ambrosio is a writer/editor living in Missoula, Montana. D'Ambrosio is the author of more than 300 articles and five books related to Montana history, people, and travel.

Poetry is no mystical calling. It doesn't need to be analytical, critical or scientific.

It only needs to be expressive.

Montana's poet laureate Tami Haaland is on a mission to mend the misunderstanding of poetry.

"I tell people that it's OK to hate poetry," says Tami Haaland. "A lot of people think they can't understand it -- and many times, they can't. But there are many kinds of fiction that are really difficult to read as well. So, it's really a matter of giving poetry a longer chance, sticking with it, and evaluating what's going on and whose talking. From a writing standpoint, it is about expression -- and we can all do it."

Poetry is no intruder. It should be natural. It can be an exploration or examination, freeing us to laugh at our weakness, pain and rage. Or it could be a small truth that feels like a revelation. It may reveal us to be fools on a forced march to oblivion, and it can hurt like hell. Or it can leave us laughing on exit. We choose what it is to us.

To Haaland, poetry is sanity in a busy schedule, a juxtaposition of emotional responses she tries to find the time to let mature.

"I have a heavy teaching load and community obligations, but I write frequently. I write all of the time. Now I carry a notebook, where in the past I would lose poems, stacking them by the computer, writing on the back of my receipts. I have no problems with inspiration, because plenty of things are happening in the exterior world."

Bombarded with modernity's scandalous mayors, opinionated Internet loudmouths, and people obsessed with hashtags and Twitter feeds, modern poetry exists as a quiet self-conversation in an era of carping outside noise.

Haaland finds that nothing stirs the senses more than walking along the Rimrocks, or the "Rims," - a geological sandstone outcropping in her Billings neighborhood. That time gives her the opportunity to analyze her thoughts and mentally select the right wording, the right explanation.

"There is something about rhythmic activity that's helpful in thinking things through. When I walk, I may carry a poem around in my head, thinking about what lines shouldn't be there. I'll make those decisions about dropping a line when I'm out walking."

Gov. Steve Bullock appointed Tami Haaland this past summer as Montana's poet laureate. Haaland will serve through Aug. 1, 2015. She was nominated for the honor by Montana's first poet laureate, Sandra Alcosser.

Haaland became a professor in the English department at Montana State University Billings in 1994. In addition to teaching a full load at MSUB, Haaland has taught creative writing and literature courses at the Montana Women's Prison since 2008, and in 2012, she helped launch a writing project at McKinley Elementary School through the Arts Without Boundaries program.

The literature and creative writing therapy courses in the prison take place over four, eight, or twelve weeks. I've helped on literary journals in the prison, guiding students through the editing process. Working inside the prison was interesting, it allows inmates to look at their past experiences and examine how they'd do things differently. It's exciting when they call themselves poets and they understand it.

Years ago, while teaching in Iowa, Haaland work with students who were also prisoners. That experience supplied her with the realization that not every life experience can be neatly polarized.

I was quickly aware of the fact that, on the outside, prisoners were supposed to all be bad, and that the good people were all supposed to be on the outside. But that wasn't the case. I learned that it's not fair to make harsh judgments. Many people on the inside were abused, neglected, and so forth. I realized how important it is for people to express themselves, especially in an atmosphere that obviously makes you think in terms of right and wrong. Writing gives people in prison a chance to express themselves and make choices.

In recent years, Haaland published two books of poetry, Breath in Every Room, which won the Nicholas Roerich Prize from Story Line Press, and When We Wake in the Night, a finalist for the May Swenson Award.

Haaland plans to travel across Montana, visiting remote communities that even those with the strongest geographic familiarity of Big Sky Country never knew existed.

"There are so many places I've never been. There is always a new place I've never known about. I'm excited to get traveling."

Haaland was born on the Hi-Linem where her family farmed south of Inverness, approximately 20 miles out of town, close to the Marias River. Some poems represent her childhood -- hiking, working on the family farm, exploring a world full of mystery. "Goldeye, Vole" captures the feelings of her youth, the precious innocence of naming the flowers, snakes, and lichens along the ground. Haaland's poem "A Calandar of Barley" conveys the sensory experience of wandering the harvest field.

"For a long time I tried to write about these places and it felt corny. But eventually certain poems endured and allowed me to speak authentically about these places."

Poet laureate is a mark of distinction that doesn't come with a monetary award. As part of the position, Haaland advocates poetry as something accessible, a self-choice not to be feared. Part of her duties will be to create a Montana speaker's bureau program through Humanities Montana.

"The object is to share poetry in whatever way seems wisest," says Haaland. "I grew up in such a rural area, but I remember the arts councils and events. I remember the Calgary opera performing at the high school where I grew up. Small communities can bring in writers and poets, and that's really important. To whatever extent I can make things like that happen, I will."

Nothing to Grouse About

sage grouseThe Bureau of Land Management will hold a meeting in Malta on Dec. 16 to gather information on a proposal to withdraw lands from mining development for 20 years to protect sage grouse.

The meeting will be held at 2 p.m. at the Great Northern Hotel. In Montana, most of the federal land meeting the criteria is north of Fort Peck Reservoir in Phillips and Valley counties.

The BLM is also extending the public comment period on the withdrawal proposal until Jan. 15 to allow more time for the public to comment.

The withdrawal proposal is meant to conserve sage grouse and their habitat. As part of the process the lands will first be analyzed to determine if they should be formally withdrawn.

Ongoing or future mineral exploration or extraction operations on valid pre-existing mining claims would not be impacted by the proposal.

MORE>>>Billings Gazette

Squat, But Not Here

toilet use in YellowstoneThere were plenty of examples from the past year of Asian tourists in Jackson Hole finding trouble as a result of cross-cultural misunderstandings.

A lack of true wildlife in heavily populated Asian countries led to some visitors getting too close the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem’s not-always-so-docile megafauna.

There were tales of foreign visitors who didn’t know English filling their gasoline-powered rental cars with diesel fuel.

The scornful looks line-cutting Chinese tourists sometimes drew undoubtedly were a result of Westerners not understanding how things work when crowds gather a hemisphere away.

But perhaps the most unexpected consequence of the lingual and cultural barriers for Chinese and other Asian visitors who flocked to northwest Wyoming this year played out in the pit toilets around Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks.

“Our maintenance staff was seeing basically broken toilet seats, especially in the vault toilets,” Teton park spokesman Andrew White said.

In all, about a dozen of the 42 vault toilets in Grand Teton park wound up broken this summer, he said.

What was happening, park officials discovered, is that tourists from Asian countries were squatting, with their feet on the lids, and the shuffling of legs bearing a body’s full weight was causing toilets to snap where the hinges connect the lid to the bowl.

MORE>>>Jackson Hole News

A Season of Gratitude

By Angela Jamison

Angela JamisonAngela Jamison is a native Montanan and she grew up in beautiful Bozeman. I'm the mother of two girls and write a blog about our life here and taking in the simple pleasures of family and food.

Somehow we have found ourselves right in the middle of November. One day we are marveling at the color of the valley as the leaves turn brilliant shades of orange and gold, the next day we are under a blanket of snow and scrambling to make sure everyone’s snow boots still fit. Winter, as always, making an abrupt appearance while fall was still in the middle of its performance. It happens each year, yet every time I am startled at the first snow storm. As a non-skier-summer-lover you think this would bring me down, but it’s just the opposite. I am taken away by the beauty of the white flakes falling down. I fall in love with the contrast of the snow covered mountains and the bright blue sky. I am instantly filled with holiday spirit and have to make myself wait patiently until after Thanksgiving to pull out the Christmas decorations.

November.

The quiet month after the sugar high of Halloween and the wonderful chaos of Christmas.

In November I am appropriately filled with gratitude. When the weekends are calm. When there is no feeling guilty for staying inside all weekend watching movies because it’s too cold to go outside. Yes, we have a very important holiday in November, but it is one that needs little preparation. There are no decorations, no gifts…simply being with family, friends and eating. Taking time to slow down and remind ourselves of all we are grateful for.

Finding gratitude in those around you….

Whether your family is near or far, knowing how lucky you are to have them. Reminding yourself that family can be loosely defined and those friends that you chose to be your family are also something to be grateful for. You know the friends I’m talking about….the ones that are always there for you, know your history, that are easy to be around, that treat your kids like their own. Always find gratitude in those you love, even when often they are the easiest to take for granted.

Finding gratitude in your community…

How lucky we are to call Montana home. Bozeman in particular for me, which in my opinion makes me even luckier. Not everyone gets to wake up to the beauty we get to see everyday. As our community changes there are growing pains, not everyone always sees eye to eye on this. I think one thing we can all agree on is the reason we’re so passionate about it is because it’s so darn great here. I have grown up here and have seen the changes and for this town that has nurtured me and now welcomes my children, I am grateful. For the happiness I see in most people around and those reaching out to help their neighbors, I am grateful. For the mountains that surround us and the neighborhoods tucked inside, I am grateful.

Finding gratitude in the snow…

For November I will embrace the snow. I will enjoy it’s charm throughout the holiday season…for baking, for sledding and snowmen, for extra blankets on the bed and the coziness of scarves each day. I will try to be grateful for it for as long as I can. If I make it until February I will consider it a success.

Finding gratitude in the calm…

Next month things will speed up. As we inch towards Christmas it will be hard to not get caught up in it…the wanting stuff, the shopping for everyone on your list, the holiday parties, the cramming in all the traditions. It will be wonderful and exhausting as it always is. Right now I will be grateful for the quiet, the calm, the peace of November.

This month I hope you will find what you are grateful for. “Gratitude unlocks the fullness of life. It turns what we have into enough. It turns denial into acceptance, chaos to order, confusion to clarity. It can turn a meal into a feast, a house into a home, a stranger into a friend.” -Melody Beattie

The Hunter's Wives

By Kristen Berube

Kristen BerubeKristen Berube lives a crazy, laugh-filled life with her outdoorsman husband Remi and their three camo-clad children in Missoula, Montana. A graduate of Montana State University and the Northern Alberta Institute of Technology, she loves being a mom and enjoys hiking, fishing, and camping. “Confessions of a Camo Queen: Living with an Outdoorsman” is her first book.

I am clearly married, yet I sleep alone for half of the year. My husband sleeps with someone every night, however. He’s been like this for years. He has “dated” others who didn't quite pan out, I guess. They hike too slow, whine too much, drink too much or have different seasonal goals. Who knew "outdoorsman hunting partner dating" was so difficult?

My commitment is to my husband and our children; his commitment is to me, our children, and his other wife. Say what!? Yep, he comes home weekly, after rolling around in fields, tents and mountain sides covered in filth and his other wife's perfume. She must be a nasty ho to want to get down and dirty in all of the places that they rendezvous. And why does she smell so damn musky... gross. I know I am second in line for the outdoorsman’s attentions for about half of the year; his other wife is his undying priority. Ugh, it is heartbreaking, but I have come to accept it.

I know you are beginning to wonder the following...Why don't you leave him for cheating on you? Can you say alimony? Why aren't you in the man cave shop snapping his fly rods in half and spray painting his camouflage boat hot pink? Well, that's because my outdoorsman is not technically cheating. No, I'm not one of those people who make excuses for their cheating significant other. No, my outdoorsman does not bat for the other team but his other wife is a man...

Wife #2 generally hides in the background of our lives until about mid-August. You know, they keep their fires burning with little rendezvous of "going fishing,” "practicing shooting,” and "planning trips"... They think that I do not notice all of the hushed conversations, all of the midnight texting, all the whispering into the phone and giggling. Oh, the giggling, it is positively sickening. Their creepy sweet talking consists of words like “new camo,” “antlers,” and “secret spots.” Those turds don't think that I know what they are up to, but I do. I am very aware that September is near and that means it is soon time to take the spot at the back of the line and let the hairy, stinky, foul-mouthed Wife #2 just have my outdoorsman. I cannot compete. I do not want to compete. Trying to compete with my husband’s other wife is futile September through December. During this time of year all of my good qualities and skills are moot. His other wife can gut and bone out a deer in 6 minutes flat without breaking a sweat. His other wife thoroughly enjoys farting in the sunset together. His other wife enjoys romantic Mountain House dinners. His other wife thinks it's simply wonderful to hike for days, “sniff test” deer shit for freshness, to take a poop behind a sage brush, and drink warm, purified mud puddle water... no thank you! His other wife doesn't mind not showering for a week at a time or that he doesn’t either. Oh, and before I forget, his other wife has a beard. Definitely can't, and won't compete there.

Who is this gorilla? This is the outdoorsman’s hunting partner. His partner in hikin’, glassin’ (also known as using the spotting scope to look at animals on the hill), shootin’, fartin’, chasin’ down animals, beer drinkin’, and card playin’. This partner is his true mirror-self for several months. Once the hunting season has begun, these two are as inseparable as a couple of high school love birds. For God’s sakes, they even notice if one of them gets a haircut. They have matching camouflage. They have matching bows and guns. And they both sweet talk their simply wonderful FIRST wives into cooking them smorgasbord of food every weekend for their camo-infused little weekend getaways. You know those campouts where they supposedly snuggle “butt to butt” for safety and warmth. They sleep under the stars and talk about life. They snore in unison after they have exhausted themselves hiking to check out every fricking wild animal within a 20 mile radius. There is no whining, just more hiking, more searching, and more hunting.

Before the sun comes up they wake up, look into each other’s eyes and take turns building the fire to warm each other up, then make each other coffee. Wow... Sounds awfully romantic, boys… Ooooalala! Instead of a good morning kiss, they give each other an aggressive chest bump, pour their plain black boiling coffee down their throats, engulf a few granola bars and set their sights on the mountain side. One could never say that they do not have the same life goals. They are united. They are one. They are there to hunt.

In all honestly, I am so, so grateful for my outdoorsman’s other wife. I want him to be as tough as nails, smarter than a whip and able to handle shit. I want him to be able to drag out my outdoorsman if he breaks his leg, I want him to shoot straight if a bear decides to attack, and I want him to be a downright badass. I can guarantee my outdoorsman will look out for his other wife in the same protective caveman-like fashion, and I am grateful he's looking out for him in return.

 

 

Dragon Flies

By Kyle Ploehn

Kyle PloehnKyle Ploehn is an artist, illustrator and writer living in Billings Montana. He likes to spend the few hours he isn't painting hiking the mountains of Montana.

This painting was a commission project for a wonderful local nurse. As an artist, having someone fall in love with a painting is a particularly special experience, however there is something exceptionally fun about finally showing someone a finished project they helped craft. After spending many hours discussing sketches and layouts she had to sit patiently by while I painted for a number of months. The way her eyes lit up when she finally saw the finished painting really reminds me why I like to do what I do.

While a dragon is a fantastical creature and I’m typically known as a wildlife painter, it can be good creatively to stretch beyond what is normal. A painting like this poses new interesting problems to be solved. For one, a creature like this doesn’t exist so how would it work? What would it look like? How would a wing work if it also has a shoulder? While being a challenge, it also provides exploration and a sense of creation working on real animals can’t evoke.

The original is sold. Visit me at http://kyleploehnart.blogspot.com