A Foodie Returns to Montana

By Shantel Cronk

In my travels, I have noticed how food reflects the local culture, the flavors from a region, and unique dishes passed on from generation to generation.  Not until I returned to my roots in rural Montana this past winter did I realize how evolved my tastes had become and how I had to embrace what was part of my past and likely a part of my future.  Last December when I drove the 1,500 miles home, if I had known how life would unfold I would have packed my Vitamix.

Initially it was only to be a month-long trip to see my family for the holidays. Definitely not a one-way drive. Yet months later, here I am sitting in my parents living room. (I met a wonderful guy the day after coming home but that’s for another blog.)  How could I take so much time off?  See, I was living in Santa Barbara, CA and I had just been laid off about 6 weeks before the holidays.  With a great severance package, I decided to pack up my belongings and put all of my household stuff in storage (where it still is today), and save some money, typically spent on expensive Santa Barbara rent, until I returned mid-January.  The day I left and drove down highway 101 the wildfires were literally raging up the coast from Ventura to Santa Barbara which eventually turned out to be one of California’s largest wildfires on record followed by devastating mudslides. As I drove out of the smoke, my little SUV was packed with my dog, ski’s, Christmas presents, and a ton of clothes.   I was looking forward to getting out of the ash to the fresh air of Montana.

Montana.  

I arrived on a sunny day in mid-December and the next day was the beginning of one of the most epic winters on record. Extreme cold (-40 at times) and record snowfall (some days 12+ inches) for months was tough, but because I grew up in this environment, the 4th generation on a cattle ranch, I knew how the weather could be. It was funny how I would get double takes when people would see my California plates navigating the icy conditions. While both the weather and staying with my parents were MAJOR adjustments, I also had to reacclimatize to food and the culture around food that I had forgotten. In my 20+ years since leaving for college, I had lived in Seattle, Portland, Minneapolis and of course Santa Barbara – all places with amazing food and a whole gamma of choices. In addition, I enjoyed a career that took me all around the world and changed my pallet to appreciate a wide array of tastes and cultures. The variety and having really fresh healthy options became more of the norm in my life.  And coming back to a rural town of less than 1,500 people where the next big town over was a mere 10,000 people, I realized quickly there was a food culture that I had known growing up that hadn’t changed very much, but I had.

One thing I love that isn’t as common in more urban environments is the frequency of hosting dinners at home with family or friends. To say I ate out at restaurants a lot in my most recent hometown of Santa Barbara is putting it mildly.  I would venture to guess I had dinner out at least 3 nights a week. It was an urban lifestyle with plenty of places to choose from and my house was walking distance to many dining options.  Maybe it’s just the culture or because of smaller dwellings but people in urban areas just don’t entertain at home for dinner as often.  Entertaining at home is common in rural Montana as many towns have few or no restaurants (other than the local bar or bowling alley that may at most serve up a frozen pizza).  Even growing up, I remember after high school games going to the homes of friends for food and drinks, which is still common.  This winter the guy I’m dating cooked for me a number of times including grilling venison (from a deer he shot the year prior) and on St. Patty’s Day, he also made corned-beef and cabbage in his slow cooker. It was loaded with veggies and was perfect when the weather was still bitterly cold.

Even eating out at the local restaurants took some adjusting.  While many areas of Montana do have very sophisticated dining options (Whitefish, Missoula, or Bozeman), where I am located the nearest airport (and Starbucks) is over 100 miles away.  Some of the same bars and restaurants my parents went to when they dated (50+ years ago) are still here.  How would you like your potato? Mashed? Hashed? Baked? Twice baked? French Fries? Tater Tots? Sweet Potato? This is a standard question when ordering most main dishes and I still longingly hope to see riced or mashed cauliflower as a side option, or maybe find avocado toast listed as an a starter option on the menu. Mmmm…

Say what you want about Amazon, but it was my saving grace. I was able to order maca powder, quinoa, chia and hemp seeds. There are no Whole Foods or Trader Joes in Montana but luckily I discovered in the nearby town there is a modest natural food store where I can find almond flour, Kombucha, and Ezekiel bread. The local meat store has salmon and sea bass and the main local grocery store had almond milk, coconut oil, and organic chicken.  My dad would roll his eyes as I would unpack things and of course jokingly questioned me on how almonds actually make milk. At home one cold night I made my own baked crusted salmon and quinoa with spinach, feta cheese and olives.  It was a nice reminder that I could, in fact, have some variety.

Now I know what you’re thinking. Am I too high maintenance with my food choices? No.  I enjoy Doritos just as much as the next person. But in the past 5 years I have had a host of health issues and one key point I find is that paying attention to what you eat is important. Plus, over the years I just had the benefit of everything from vegan, gluten free, sushi, tapas, seafood, Indian and Mexican restaurants.

Yes, I miss things.  I miss seeing more gluten free options or organic details called out on menus. I miss going weekly to the farmers markets and getting fresh fruits and veggies or living near neighbors who would share lemons and avocados picked from their own trees. Do I think it’s odd that a city of 130,000 in California allows people to have chickens in their backyard and a town of 10,000 in Montana doesn’t? Yes. I loved having fresh eggs brought into the office by my coworkers.  I miss seeing the “catch of the day” listed and knowing it really was caught just that day. I miss great brunch places and organic coffee houses that slow pour their coffees.

But I love Montana. There are amazing things here.  Besides local beef, lamb and pork, there is trout, bison and venison. Pitchfork fondue is something I still have only experienced in Montana.  The different towns have summer farmers markets with fresh vegetables grown by the various Hutterite Colonies.  Fresh picked Flathead cherries are seasonally available and you can find huckleberries infused in all sort of chocolates, coffees and deserts.  The pies in the 4-H booth at the local county fair are my favorite with every kind from apple to blueberry to cherry.  And I’ll be able to find fresh lefsa at some of the church bazaars and fresh bread, muffins, scones, cinnamon rolls and buns are already often found in bakeries and coffee shops in the area. Organic farming is more and more prevalent and I was recently introduced to some locally grown organic Kracklin Kamut made with sea salt (check out http://www.kracklinkamut.com) as a snack.   Honey made in local hives (like I had on the ranch growing up) is always a sweet thing (pun intended) and of course great beer from Montana brewers who are popping up more and more these days in our rural area.

Don’t get me wrong, Montana has evolved a lot in culinary options and I’m not completely secluded from these, they are really just a drive away. While I may miss some things that used to be just down the street, I know I can still go to the bigger Montana cities or resort areas and find them.  And it’s a great excuse to travel back to those other cities to enjoy their local flavors. Or I can just get creative and learn to cook some things I can’t find.  But I enjoy this rural life, the people, the communities, and the food choices that span back generations with recipes passed down from family to family.  I love that a friend had me over for a visit and chopped rhubarb for me out of her backyard so I could make a dessert.

And when I’m enjoying one of those local beers, eating s’mores by the campfire in Glacier Park under the “Big Sky” full of stars this summer, ask me again what I’m missing…. my answer will be nothing.

One Long Weekend In Montana

By Montana Pressroom

One Long Weekend in Montana

Find unlimited adventure for everyone with a long weekend in Montana.  Long vacations are great, but not always feasible. For travelers seeking big adventures without a big time commitment, Montana has endless possibilities waiting. Between the mountains, rivers and plains, Montana’s warm season is the perfect time to plan a long weekend trip. Whether you’re a couple, a family or a group of friends, you’ll make lasting memories together with a three-day getaway to Big Sky Country.

Couples Getaway

For a relaxed, romantic weekend, spend the time lakeside at Flathead Lake. This pristine lake is the largest body of fresh water west of the Great Lakes and the charming towns surrounding it offer unique atmospheres centered on its beauty. To explore your surroundings, rent a boat, kayak or canoe and venture out to Wild Horse Island State Park. The island is perfect for a cozy picnic and exploring. Off the island, take the two-hour drive around Flathead Lake, stopping at cherry orchards or finding other Made in Montana products in local shops. A sunset cruise will be a romantic memory you’ll never forget, as the fiery colors of the sky dip into dark shadow around you and the sun sinks out of sight across the lake. When you’re ready to call it a day, you’ll find accommodations around Flathead Lake ranging from one-of-a-kind resorts to cozy beach bed and breakfasts. Try different accommodations around the lake for a change of atmosphere without traveling far.

Family Fun
Family fun is everywhere in BillingsBig Horn Resort offers family-friendly lodging and The Reef Indoor Water Park--- the largest indoor water park in Montana. Learn about local wildlife and exotic animals at ZooMontana, where you can see tigers, lynx and grizzly bears, oh my! Take the family for a hike to experience rock paintings dating back as far as 2,000 years ago in the nearby Pictograph Cave State Park, then cool down with a swim atLake Elmo State Park. History is also an adventure here when you visit top museums like the Western Heritage Center, or take a short drive to the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument. Bike the Rimrock Trail and watch the sunset over Montana’s largest city to create a memorable family experience. The fun is on tap with an evening walk in the state’s largest walkable brewery district, where you’ll find family-friendly dining and locally crafted brews.

Friends’ Escape

Take a long weekend and go hiking in the stunning Sluice Boxes State Park. It’s the perfect opportunity to escape from it all among the soaring cliffs of the Belt Creek Canyon. After your outdoor adventure, you’ll find fun and excitement in the nearby city of Great Falls with local breweries, dining and shops. Take a stroll through the Great Falls Farmers Market and enjoy the vibrant Montana-grown produce, music, and locally made wares for purchase. You can toast your getaway at the newly opened Enbär Craft Cocktail Loungewith unique cocktails made with local spirits. Find history and culture with a visit to the nearby Blackfeet Reservation, home to Montana’s largest Native American tribe, the Blackfeet Nation. Just east of Glacier National Park, this beautiful community invites visitors to experience their culture by visiting the Blackfeet Heritage Center and Art Galleryor the Museum of the Plains Indian. Take a Native guided tour on horseback, or float the pristine waters of the calm St. Mary River. Watch for wildlife and take time to ask your guide questions about the cultural significance of the landscape around you.

If you can find 72 hours to get away, you can find unlimited adventure in Montana. Trip ideas for family funroad trip adventures and more are available to help you discover your #MontanaMoment. Find more resources to plan your trip, including places to gothings to do, and places to stay.

The Mountain Keepers

By Sean Jansen

The Mountain Keepers

Sean Jansen

I slowly unzipped and peeled back the rain fly of my tent after hearing chewing and crunching noises for an alarm clock in the Sky Top Basin of the Beartooth Mountains. I knew it wasn’t a bear.But also knew it wasn’t a deer sitting at an elevation of around11,000 feet. As I slowly peeled back the tent flap, the view of Granite Peak was illuminated with gorgeous sunrise light. But the mountain goats five feet from my tent sifting through the alpine rock environment stole the morning show.

Granite Peak in South Central Montana’s Beartooth Mountains is the tallest peak in the state. Sitting at 12,799 feet, it stands far from alone with alpine lakes and 32 of the other highest peaks in the state. Though the grandeur of the peak sparkles with morning glow amongst its other granite relatives, few inhabitants call the area home, and for good reason.

It’s an inhospitable landscape. Unforgiving even within a moments notice. The beautiful sunshine of a gorgeous summer day can turn to death defying arrays of violence only summoned from the wraths of god. Snow at any moment, lightening for hours amongst a treeless landscape, and bitter cold. Among the iceberg laden lakes with the occasional salmonid, the pika and marmot squeaking from the shelter of eroded granite blocks, and the occasional passing bird of prey cruising the skyline waiting for something to emerge, the landscape is virtually lifeless. But among those the thick furred, horned and hoofed mountain goats seem to cherish the far from friendly environment and call this place home.

Constantly scouring the basin of the mighty surrounding peaks scratching, licking, and smelling for any sort of greenery, these creatures are the perfect adaptation to any alpine scenario. With an incredible thick and white coat, they can with stand even the most bitter of winds that sweep down from the highest elevations all the while blending in wonderfully to the snowy landscape in case any predatory creature come looking. Their hooves are the biggest asset they poses. As they are surefooted with two toes that are spread wide and evenly to provide the greatest balance range of any other hoofed creature in the states. Along with the most gripped as any climbing shoe on the market.

Though incredibly curious as I found out mere feet away while I drank my coffee from the shelter of my tent, they can indeed be aggressive depending on their kids and territory. They move constantly as the lack of any sort of green they ingest is limited. So they climb and search any and all areas where food may grow.

Humans have indeed successfully climbed and hiked Granite Peak as a token to say one has indeed reached the roof of Montana. However none of us possess the skills that these creatures utlize on a daily and annual basis. Our time in the Beartooth Mountains in and around Granite peak is very short and seasonal while they simply watch us for two months a year and enjoy the rest to themselves. A lifestyle, I’m sure they are just fine with.

Behind the Scenes of "Yellowstone"

On the set of Kevin Costner’s “Yellowstone" 

By Brian D’Ambrosio

On a picture perfect May morning, a black Yukon Denali delivers bags of ice at the buzzing basecamp of trailers and tents. At the fairgrounds in Darby, numerous buses come and go, dropping off extras, who are dressed in cowboy hats, blue denim Wranglers, and flannel shirts, sporting looks of true grit. A number of crew members zip by with intent, including a young lady with a large wooly microphone on the end of a pole that looks a bit like a small dog.  

While eating quickly at the breakfast line of the catering unit – offerings featuring classic Mexican breakfasts, ranging from huevos rancheros and eggs with pork machaca to tortilla variations – a pair of camera operators inspect the “dope sheet,” a register of scenes that have already been filmed.

With the low whistle of wind strikingly steady, the mountainous backdrop reveals a particularly dazzling presence. It’s the kind of charisma that tilts fast from grand to grandiose. Cast, crew, and various personnel flit in and out as the morning sun hovers behind a scrim of summit snow. It’s the final week of shooting the first season of “Yellowstone,” the excitement rising up in the air like coffee in a percolator.

The narrative of “Yellowstone” is set in Montana, and the show is filmed partially in Darby in and around the Chief Joseph Ranch, nestled in the foothills of the Bitterroot mountain range along Montana's boundary with Idaho. “Yellowstone” follows the Dutton family, who control the largest contiguous ranch in the U.S. Kevin Costner, who’s also an executive producer of the series, plays the fifth-generation ranching patriarch John Dutton. “Yellowstone” is directed by Taylor Sheridan, “Sicario” (2015) and “Hell or High Water” (2016) writer who turned director with “Wind River” (2017), an acclaimed crime thriller set on a Native American reservation.

Gil Birmingham, a veteran of more than 60 film and television productions, appears in the series in the role of casino owner Thomas Rainwater, and he describes “Yellowstone” as “an epic contemporary drama.”

“Thomas Rainwater is a highly educated man and he has quotable lines,” said Gil Birmingham. “He has profound lines, and the script is full of timely and injected monologues. Thomas is one of the story lines about the competing interests for the Dutton ranch. What I love about the show is that it’s not black and white, but portrayals of both sides of things, and lots of gray, and it’s a real compelling, authentic, and unique perspective of Montana life. It’s exploring themes of Western loyalty, family, betrayal, and a family deciding just what’s loyal and what’s legal. The patriarch who is doing his best to leave a legacy, and of his responsibility of what’s been passed on to him.”

 “Big-Budget Theatrical Every Week”

Director Taylor Sheridan, who was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Original Screenplay for Hell or High Water, told Deadline in May that he envisions a “big-budget theatrical every week,” and that structurally, he approaches the show’s filming with the same slickness and feel of a movie production.

Montana has provided Sheridan with an exuberantly dramatic locale for such a powerfully planned series. (More than 20 Utah locations are employed, and the majority of the interiors were shot at the state-of-the-art Utah Film Studios in Park City.) At least several hundred extras have been used for various Montana scenes, including ranch-hands for the Dutton family. Behind the screen, the Paramount Network hired approximately 60 locals for transportation, production assistants and other crew jobs, one of whom is Pamela Hart, a fifth-generation Bitterroot resident.

“I’ve met some fabulous and friendly people,” said Pamela Hart. “Everyone is coming from some place different and everyone wants a little tidbit or piece of information, a hiking trail, a place to hike, information about lions, tigers, bears, everything. This is a big boost in the arm for the Bitterroot. It’s a boost for locals.”

Hart has transported Costner several times from the basecamp to the Chief Joseph Ranch.

“Costner is so down to earth, a real person with a real big sense of humor.”

Local Vendors “blood life”

Set designer Carla Curry first worked in Montana while employed as part of the production of the 1998 family drama “Everything That Rises,” which starred former Paradise Valley resident Dennis Quaid  and also served as his directorial debut. Shot in the lush breadth of Livingston, the TNT production cast Quaid as Jim Clay, a fierce ranchowner living off land passed down through generations of his family who fights to hold onto his tracts when big business interests move into the area and spike prices. Curry said that she “jumped” at the chance to return to the state.

“We’ve been here (in Darby) shooting “Yellowstone” in July and August and at the end of October, and for a short stint before Christmas,” said Carla Curry. “So we’ve been here for all seasons. The first time I came out during “Everything That Rises” it was during the fires at Lolo, and now we’ve been here through the flooding in the Bitterroot.”

Curry said that the she’s been “up and down and around” the Bitterroot Valley searching for items such as cowboy hats, clothing, and assorted tack and even purchased a replica set of antique antler chandeliers that were reproduced by an artisan in Stevensville.

“There are some great antique and furniture stores around and they have all been receptive if we get into a pinch,” said Curry. “The local vendors are our blood life. It’s not just furniture, but Home Depot and the local gas stations, and all the way up to Missoula. While we are breaking from shooting, we have some 30 houseplants that come out of the (Chief Joseph) lodge that need to be watered and taken care of. We’ve had them hauled and paid a local nursery to take care of them when we are gone for a month or two. It’s the little things like that that people never think about.”

Perri Eppie, the series' publicity coordinator, estimated spending in the state is “about $1.5 million,” with approximately “$500,000 on hotels and car rentals” and “about $250,000 locally on supplies.” Propmaster Ian Raylance said that he has been able to locate most of the prop resources locally, with the minority of goods being shipped in from California.

“Typically, we spend a lot on unique elements,” said Ian Raylance. “We needed a bear rug and we found one at one of the local antique shops. We’ve gotten great stuff by Victor, saddles, bridles and ropes. There is one scene in which Kevin receives some stitches on his forehead after being bucked from a horse, and we found this beautiful circa late-1800s handheld mirror, a beautiful thing.”

Similar to other out-of-state cast and crew members, Raylance, of Utah, is renting a home in Hamilton throughout the duration of filming. “The area has been losing population and we want to keep as much money as possible as locally as we can. It’ a huge influx of cash, and we are covering just about every hotel between here and Missoula.”

Chief Joseph Ranch

Most of the Montana filming takes place on the Chief Joseph Ranch, which dates its settlement back to the 1880s. The dwelling that serves as John Dutton's is abundant with unusual nuances such as its original, irreplaceable Tiffany lamps.  (The great room, the bedrooms, the offices and much of the rest of the interior has been reproduced at the studio in Utah.) The crew had only around two weeks to arrange the lodgings for production; designers repainted some of the out buildings and built a bigger corral to accommodate filming.

Initial water rights were granted to the property shortly after settlement and thereafter approximately 1,400 acres of apples were being harvested within its limit. Built in 1917, the log structure was designed by Bates & Gamble, an architectural firm in Toledo, Ohio, as a summer hideaway for William Ford and Judge Hollister of Ohio. In the years since, the 5,000-square-foot house, stretched across 2,500-acres, has seen a number of owners. But it was L.A.-based artist and production designer Ruth De Jong who scouted and recommended the ranch as a shooting location.

“Ruth took a long and hard look and she came up with Chief Joseph Ranch,” said Curry. “The ranch has become another character on the show, not just an inanimate object. You couldn’t realize how fabulous it was until you laid your eyes on it. It was also one of the fastest turnarounds I’ve ever had to do, and we didn’t even have time to shop. Yet, we’ve been able to fill it in with stuff all up and down the Bitterroot Valley.”

“Chief Joseph Ranch is intended to represent the residential look as if a billionaire lived there, and not a new money ranch,” added Perri Eppie.

“Dallas” Meets “The Sopranos”

“Yellowstone” is an ambitious drama that’s being described as a cross between “Dallas” and “The Sopranos,” a modern representation that doesn’t just come off the production house assembly line. According to nominal press material, the Dutton family must contend with constant encroachments by land developers, tension with an Indian reservation and political quarrel with America's first national park.

This afternoon the production is completing the final episode of the first season. (The show hasn’t been renewed for a second season — a pilot is currently being screened for the critics and cast members — but this is planned as a multiyear project.) In the roping area adjacent to a cluster of barns, the jostling frames of cowboys and calves synthesize into a cohesive whole – several hours of takes and re-takes which will ultimately yield but a few seconds of usable film.

A bunch of serious-looking men on horses engage in “rhubarb,” also known as background conversation by extras. (The word “rhubarb” produces the effect of real conversation, getting mouths to move believably.) In a small tent, a board displays information about the scene being filmed, scene numbers, take numbers, etc. Dolly machines provide small platforms for the cameras, rolling along special tracks. Everything is running orderly, cooperatively, even the fickle Montana spring weather.

“The film gods are definitely on our side today,” said one of the assistant camera operators. “They were predicting a few days of rain all this week, but it’s all sun right now. It’s truly incredible.”

“We’ve got an incredible cinematographer (Ben Richardson) of sweeping ideas who is often looking for ways to integrate the environment as another character in the show,” added actor Gil Birmingham.

Director Taylor Sheridan told the Salt Lake City Tribune recently that what he wanted to do “was essentially make a 10-hour movie that happened to air on television.” Paramount Network gave him the unique latitude to treat it as if a self-contained motion picture. Mindful of the failings of previous “Westerns,” the ones that tend to inspire a dreary sense of déjà vu, Sheridan said that he’s committed to keeping the dialogue and the characters nuanced.

But it’s harder now than it was then for a television show to stand out from the crowds. After previewing its feature-length premiere episode, Variety magazine said that the program “is stunningly shot, and yet beneath its mountain vistas lies nothing new, just more squabbling."

Nonetheless, the cast and crew are optimistic that the series warrants an opportunity and chance to break out.

“The scripts are so good and captivating and Taylor is the new Western storyteller,” said set designer Carla Curry. “It’s a well-woven story for sure. This one is special, and it was written for Montana, and we are grateful that we even get to do some of it in Montana. It’s been a leap of faith from Paramount.”

"I'll take searching for Wi-Fi signal at the base of a mountain over sitting at my desk any day,” said Perri Eppie, the series' publicity coordinator. “The Bitterroot community has been so welcoming and a huge asset in making Montana a character in and of itself on ‘Yellowstone.’"

The Paramount Network has announced a premiere date for “Yellowstone” — it’s scheduled to debut June 20 at 7 p.m. MST. (Paramount Network is the rebranded Spike channel.) “Yellowstone” screens in Missoula at the Wilma Theatre June 14.