Rappelling Into Trouble

   ~Phil Knight

It’s common wisdom in the climbing community that the most dangerous part of climbing is rappelling. Rappelling is when you slide down the rope in a (hopefully) controlled manner to get back down the cliff you just climbed. The problem is that if any part of the system fails, you fall. Most of the time when you are climbing, the rope is only there to catch you if you fall. But when rappelling, you are already hanging on the rope. So you don’t really have a backup.

Ice climbing is widely regarded as a crazed activity or fringe sport. If I mention it, people commonly say “I would never do that.” I started ice climbing in the late ‘70s with very marginal equipment. We climbed small frozen waterfalls in southern New England, almost always on a top rope, much safer than leading. Eventually I climbed some bigger waterfalls in New Hampshire then moved out West and started ice and rock climbing in the Rockies, even doing some easier ice leads. I never got too serious about ice climbing – it is indeed a dangerous sport – and kept it to a moderate level. But overall I loved it. There is nothing like the feel of sinking an ice hammer into a curtain of ice with a solid “thunk” and knowing you can hang off it.

One of my more challenging climbs was the Green Gully in Montana’s Pine Creek, in the Absaroka Range. At the time I was climbing with my friend Ted Wood who was willing and able to lead moderately hard ice climbs like Green Gully (WI IV*). We drove up Pine Creek to the end of the road and made the trudge up the climber’s trail to the waterfalls. Green Gully is a true classic, a beautiful wide green ice flow set between two walls of volcanic rock high in the Absaroka Range. Ted charged up the 130 foot ice flow, placing and clipping ice screws as he went while I belayed. Once he reached the top and anchored himself in, I followed as he belayed me from above. I was challenged by the steepness of the ice and physically and mentally pumped by the time I topped out.

Once we celebrated our climb, it was time to head down. Most climbs are only half over when you get to the top. Some climbs you can hike off, but you have to rappel down Green Gully. Ted had set an anchor and I clipped in, then we re-rigged the ropes for rappelling down. This requires threading one rope through the anchor point, tying the two ropes together with a secure knot then throwing both ropes down. Then you can rappel down both ropes. Once everyone is at the bottom you pull one rope to retrieve them both. Only the anchor point is left behind.

One common problem with rappelling is that the ropes may get tangled when you throw them down. Or they get stuck on a ledge or a tree. You can either pull them back up and try throwing them again, or the first rappeler can untangle them on the way down. You slide down the rope on a friction device attached to your harness with the ropes threaded through it, so you can control your descent with one hand and work to untangle the ropes with the other.

I was the first to descend the ropes from the top of the Green Gully. It looked like the ropes were a little tangled but not a big deal. I backed over the edge, crampons biting the ice, ice hammers dangling from my harness, and started rappelling down the vertical ice near the top. Looking down, I saw the ropes were actually pretty badly tangled. As I descended I could see I had a problem. The ropes had formed some kind of loop or big knot, which should not have happened. However, if I kept rappelling the ropes were going to jam in my rappel device. I would be stuck, and Ted would be trapped at the top of the climb!

I was getting nervous, realizing this could be a real mess. Looking around I found a small ledge of ice I could balance on while I figured out what to do. Starting to panic, I yelled up to Ted something about rappelling down to help me. Silence. He must have been thinking, what the heck is going on?? He could not rappel down while I was on the ropes! There was nothing he could do but hope I figured it out.

After a few minutes on my ledge, getting cold, my hands cramping, I realized I had several ice screws with me that I had removed while following Ted up the pitch. These are just what they sound like – metal screws that are threaded (and hollow) that you can turn into the ice to create an anchor point. I cranked one screw into the curtain of ice, clipped a runner to it and clipped myself to it. As quick as I could I turned in another screw and clipped to that one. Phew! I was able to lean my weight on this anchor and relax a little. I was safe from falling, but I still had to get to the bottom of the climb.

Now I had to untie from my rope. I did not like this at all. If I lost ahold of the ropes I was really stuck. I also had to unthread it from my rappel device, leaving me only the ice screws for support. Then I pulled up the ropes, untangled them, re-tied the knot at the end of the ropes (tied so you can’t rappel off the end) and tossed the ropes down, finally straight and true. After re-threading the rope in my rappel device, I was able to take my weight off the ice screws and finally rappel to the bottom. Terra firma never looked so good! After a half hour of struggling on rappel I was exhausted and soaked with sweat. Ted then rappelled down and removed my ice-screw anchor on the way. He was mighty relieved that I was able to extricate myself from my predicament.

Over all this was a strange event, and very spooky. I could not figure out how the rope looped around itself like that. It brought home the dangers of rappelling, and it was over a year before I dared to rappel again.

Note: WI IV is the difficulty rating of the climb. It means “Water Ice 4.” Ice climbs can go up to WI VII – extremely difficult and precarious. A 4 is considered moderately difficult.

 Finding Autumn Gold

   ~Doug Stevens

Sure, according to the calendar, Fall goes on until the Winter Solstice in December.  However, the color change associated with Fall doesn’t last the whole season.  In most years, starting from mid-September there is an orderly progression of color – starting up in the high country with aspens and smaller brush, such as huckleberries and mountain ashes turning their yellows and reds.  It then works its way down to lower elevations with the river cottonwoods changing color by mid-October.  As an outdoor photographer, this is the season I look forward to all year.  However, this year has been a little different, at least in my neck of the woods (northwest part of our state).  That arctic blast we got in the third week or so of September seems to have shocked many of the trees around here.  Many of the cottonwoods are giving the expected yellows, but rather turning brown then falling off without the great color show of years past. 

But there is one tree still to come – one that many feel tops all of them – the tamarack.  Our tamaracks here are actually more technically known as the “western larch” (Larix occidentalis) and are native to the Inland Northwest and Pacific Northwest, such as northwestern Montana, northern Idaho, Washington – all areas west of the Continental Divide.  Some areas, like the western portion of Glacier National Park, along the North Fork of the Flathead River, the forest seems to be upwards of 50% western larch.  However, it is rare to find larches east of the Divide, so perhaps residents of eastern Montana have never seen one.  Tamaracks, along with beargrass flowers are iconic of the northwest portion of Montana.

True tamaracks are actually the eastern larch (Larix laricina), and grow in swampy, boggy areas from the Great Lakes region to the northern eastern seaboard.  The word “tamarack” itself is an Algonquian word (according to Wikipedia), used originally by tribes of the east.  But, “tamarack” is such a good word that we have adopted it for our western larches, as well.

Regardless of whether eastern or western, larches are deciduous conifers – that’s right, pine-like trees that turn color and loose their needles every year.  This happens after the aspens trees have all turned yellow and lost their leaves, after the river cottonwoods have likewise gone through their colors and leaves dropped, the mountain maples have all gone bare.  It is beginning to happen right now.  The green needles of summer are starting to yellow up, and will reach a crescendo around the beginning of the last week of October.  Usually by Hallowe’en they have peaked, but they last well into November.  And the color? They turn a deep, rich gold – a gold well beyond that of the aspen.  For those on the east side of the state who may not have seen this yearly ritual, it can be very impressive to see a whole mountainside turn bright gold.  When my wife and I first moved to northern Rockies from Colorado many, many years ago, we arrived right at the beginning of November.  I had never seen “pine” trees turn yellow.  I thought - ‘is there something going on with the forest here?’  What the changing aspens are to Colorado, the tamaracks are to northwest Montana and northern Idaho.  It can be so striking that now Glacier National Park have webcams devoted to broadcasting this change of color – a “larchcam”, so to speak  

So, now is the time to make plans to get out and see this spectacle!  Weather permitting (a big “if” this year), find a trail on the west side of our state and enjoy hiking through these forests of gold while they last.  Even the trails become “paved with gold”, as they drop their needles.  After the tamaracks change, it will be a long time before the colors return in the Spring!

Finding Gold in Western Montana

Prairie Dog Town

   ~Montana State Parks

This week's featured State Park is Greycliff Prairie Dog Town  located at Old US Hwy 10 Greycliff, MT.Located just off interstate 90 in Southeast Montana, Greycliff Prairie Dog Town State Park is the perfect stop on a family road trip! 

Greycliff is protected and preserved through the joint efforts of Montana State Parks, the Nature Conservancy and the Montana Department of Transportation

The black-tailed prairie dog, which calls this park home, is only one of five different species of prairie dogs! Within the Greycliff colony, the prairie dogs have a “coterie” which is like a prairie dog family. Each coterie consists of an adult male, three adult females and their offspring under two years old.  If you’re planning to visit, you’re more likely to see these active creatures on a mild winter or cool summer day as they tend to hide when it’s too cold or hot. 

Greycliff Prairie Dog Town State Park is located in southeast Montana. The site is 98 acres in size and is situated at 3,600 feet in elevation. This black-tailed prairie dog community is protected and preserved through the efforts of the Nature Conservancy, the Montana Departments of Transportation and Fish, Wildlife and Parks. Interpretive displays help to tell the story of these small, entertaining creatures. Visitors are reminded not to feed, touch, or harass the prairie dogs. The parking area at the park, ideal for viewing the prairie dogs, is ADA accessible and pets are allowed but MUST BE ON LEASH. A golf course is located nearby in Big Timber and also five museums.

Did you know?

Prairie dogs have an important ecological significance! They create habitats that provide prey, shelter, and forage for many animals, including black-footed ferrets, burrowing owls and mountain plovers. 

Planning a stop? You’ll find: 

✅ A picnic area is conveniently located at the entrance of the park, but remember, do NOT feed the prairie dogs! These are still wild animals whose diet is specifically adapted to natural food NOT human food. 

✅ Interpretive displays help visitors to understand prairie dogs and the role they play in our ecosystem. 

✅ The landscape makes for beautiful photography. 

✅ Wildlife abounds here, see how many different creatures you can spot!

Prairie dogs are very talkative and are known to have at least 11 different calls!

Black-tailed prairie dogs typically dig 15 to 40 burrow entrances per acre, which means in the 98-acre state park, there are between 1,470-3,920 burrow entrances!

These prairie dogs build a complex burrow, which can be up to seven feet deep and 25 feet long, and includes a listening chamber, dry chamber, regular chamber, and toilet, all of which serve different functions.
 

Fall Fly Fishing

   ~Sean Jansen

The steam from the coffee clouds up from the thermos and begins to fog the windshield of the car. The defroster is on full blast, but the morning layer of frozen dew slowly recedes much like the frigid core of the body beginning to warm. The rising sun makes it seem like you’re an early bird, but rest assured the only bird getting this worm is the slow rise of the sun well into the short autumn days.

The base layers make it stiff to put the waders on, but well worth it and necessary to enjoy the warming day on the river. Breathe can be seen easily with the briskness of the air as steam sizzles its way off the river. The surrounding mountains are encapsulated with alpine snow, and the cottonwoods and aspens lining the river are a blaze in bright yellows and reds. The line screams out of the reel and is fed through the guides with the gloved hands threading the needles with the deft and precision needed to bounce that nymph or swing that streamer within the crosshairs of that large brown trout. The first couple of steps into the water make you aware of the necessity of thicker socks and long johns; but the casting and search soon removes those thoughts.   

Long are the days of shorts, sandal tans, and full brimmed hats. The waders get dusted off, the long johns creak open after being folded in the drawer for the last few months, and the down and rain jackets make their debut. The dry fly boxes get buried in the tackle box and the indicators, nymph rigs, and most importantly, streamer patterns get tied and hooked-on as the trout of fall now have a heavier appetite in their preparation for winter. 

Welcome to fly fishing fall in Montana.

What is likely the highlight to fishing in fall is its relative solitude, especially in comparison to the pressure of the summer droves and hatches that attract people from around the globe to our rivers and lakes. On many occasions, the only company you have on the river are either the people you brought with you, or the falling leaves and the elusive trout and possibly a few curious antelope if you’re attacking the upper Madison, or Canadian geese splashing down on the lower Madison. You may also find a few white tailed deer along the Missouri, Jefferson, or Beaverhead; and if you're lucky, a bighorn sheep on the Gallatin, with of course the droves of construction workers heading up to Big Sky.

The real point is that the interests of many people are shifting to other Montana passions, including snow sports that indulge our thirst for outdoor activity for about 8 months a year. College classes are also a factor, with midterms quickly approaching and the textbooks opened instead of  fly boxes. Seasonal workers indulge in overtime, attempting to finish projects before the first real snow falls. And,  notably, the wealthier, seasonal snow-birds abandon Montana for warmer climes  Montana's fall rivers remain free and fairly abandoned, except for the devoted angler and trout who share moments on the water this time of year,  

Montana On A Budget

   ~Outside Pursuits

With its stunning landscape, popular national parks, and key role in American history, Montana attracts a lot of visitors every year. Whether you want to admire the wildlife in Yellowstone National Park, hike along the trails in Glacier National Park, or fish in its lakes and rivers, there’s always lots to see and do in Big Sky Country.

But how can you live your big dreams on a budget? Well, that’s all down to how you get around, where you stay, what you eat, and what you do.

Getting around

Historically, Montana boasts some of the lowest gas prices in the US. And if you want to explore Montana’s vast prairies and rugged mountains, traveling by car provides much more flexibility and accessibility than airports and train tracks.

But if you want to really explore Montana, your own two feet will be best. Once you’ve driven to the trailhead, hiking will get you to the most beautiful lakes, waterfalls, and mountain views.

Another thing that’s great about hiking is that it costs little. You may have to pay to park your vehicle in a national park parking lot, but the trails themselves are usually free. And in winter, those same wilderness trails become perfect for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

Where to stay

If you want cheap accommodation, the best place to stay is inside your own tent. You’ll find popular campgrounds all over the state. Some are private, but many are public. Some provide running water and flush toilets, while others are completely undeveloped. The fees at private campgrounds are reasonable ($15 or less), and the undeveloped, public campsites are usually free.

However, you may prefer a roof over your head, especially if you’re visiting Glacier National Park in winter. You can find a mix of affordable motels and remote cabins inside the national forests and state parks.

Did you know you can rent disused ranger stations, bunkhouses, and fire lookout posts in the national forests? Some include modern conveniences, but others are just a roof over your head. They can be rented for as little as $30.

On a hiking, hunting, or fishing expedition lasting several weeks, it’s a good idea to combine rough camping with budget motel rooms. You can spend two or three nights in the wilderness, then clean up during one night in a motel with showers and other modern amenities.

Wherever you stay, it’s a good idea to book in advance. That’s essential around tourist hotspots, especially during summer. During summer, even budget motels near the parks may be pricy. At those times, consider more remote hostels, hotels, and motels to keep costs low.

What to eat

Generally, if you can prepare your own meals at campsites, your money will stretch further. Across Montana, you’ll find many Saturday farmers’ markets. You can pick up some great bargains there, and there’s no sales tax.

If you’re fishing or hunting, acquiring protein shouldn’t be a problem. And, if you’re brave and knowledgeable enough, you can forage for berries in the forests.

What to do

There are lots of fantastic activities to do in Montana, and this is not a complete list. But many people come to the Land of the Shining Mountains to hike, ski, and ride horses.

Hiking

Hiking is a popular activity in Montana, and often it’s free. The Glacier National Park, for example, boasts over 700 miles of trail, with both short and long trails to choose from. You can even join ranger-led hikes if you prefer to explore the wilderness with a helpful expert.

Skiing and snowshoeing

When winter comes and the snow falls, the hiking trails can become blocked. But not if you wear snowshoes. At the Glacier National Park, you can join a ranger-led, two-hour snowshoe adventure. And many of the trails in both Glacier National Park and Yellowstone National Park are also suitable for cross-country skiing. 

If you own your own skis or snowshoes, these activities are either free or cost very little. Park entrance fees may apply (typically $25) depending upon where you go.

There are also plenty of ski resorts for downhill skiing. While some larger resorts are expensive, many smaller mountains offer skiing destinations where you can enjoy the slopes on a budget.

Horseback riding

Cattle ranches have been important to Montana’s economy since before the creation of Montana Territory in 1864. And alongside ranching came horse riding.

There are many ranches in Montana that offer combined accommodation, food, and horse riding. Although this is more expensive than camping and hiking, combining these activities in one package makes for a relatively low-cost adventure holiday.

To take just one ranch as an example, the Bar W Guest Ranch in Whitefish offers fishing, dog sledding, snowmobiling, square dancing, archers, and many other activities as well as horseback riding. Given that TripAdvisor rates this venue as 5-star, you know you’ll get value for money.

If you prefer to camp or stay in a budget hotel, you can still ride horses at the Bar W Guest Ranch. They offer one-hour, two-hour, and half-day rides along wooded mountain trails. That way you can enjoy horse riding through Montana’s beautiful Alpine scenery on a tighter budget.

Enjoy the Last Best Place!

You don’t have to spend a fortune to experience the Wonder of Creation that is Montana. With a little thought and careful planning, you can enjoy affordable food, accommodation, and thrilling activities in Big Sky Country.