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HGTV’s “Buttetification”

Long celebrated as a company town and a union town, Butte sits atop “the richest hill on earth.”
 

To assemble an empire, a man needed ore, and Butte was where to get it.
 

The city was an unqualified money plant in the 1890’s. Smelters and ore-roasting ovens coughed up clouds of sulfur and arsenic, while besmirched immigrants broadened hundreds of miles of tunnels into ore veins. Its people never quarreled much about underground shafts, which by 1900 produced nearly half the United States copper supply.
 

During World War I, Butte was by far Montana’s largest city, with at least 90,000 people, a focal point agleam of lights, clatter, and goings-on. East Broadway was the main branch of Finntown, one of half a dozen ethnic neighborhoods, encapsulated in its diverse architecture: American Craftsman, Victorian, Italianate, Gambrel.


Since copper declined in the 1980s, Butte has battled to find an economic grip and a repurposed identity. Its population has shrunk to approximately 33,000 today. As people have moved to the flats, off the hill, what has been left behind in this grand city for the most part isn’t very grand. Barrenness where gorgeous spaces once reigned; weeded and silent lots; empty storefronts; giant unoccupied edifices; needy residential houses with great histories. While there are many revitalization strategies afoot, perhaps none plan to perk up Butte’s deprived architectural treasures more transparently – or enjoyably – than the podium of Montana builders Amy and Ty Free.   
 

“It seems as if every single home in Butte has a real personality and they have character, and you just can’t not like any of these old homes,” said Ty Free, one half of the husband-wife duo featured on HGTV’s new television pilot “Buttetification.”
 

“It’s not like re-inventing the wheel when you are doing renovation work in Butte,” added Ty.  “That’s because there are so many of these buildings here that have the capability of rehabilitation. There aren’t that many places in America where you see so many buildings like there are here in Butte. There are so spaces which are either going to crumble into nothing, or they are going to have to be maintained.”
 

Amy and Ty believe in redemptive architecture, a philosophy that isn’t about gentrification, or replacing ordinary people with well-to-do ones, but intends to revitalize a forsaken neighborhood without displacing residents or changing its essential character. This transformation is about creating concrete ways for existing residents to feel that tradition and culture can still thrive where they live.
 

“Butte has seen a lot of hard times, and our goal is to have a connection to that real experience,” said Amy Free. “We hope to renovate and restore Butte’s buildings by respecting Butte’s old heritage and its old buildings, and really help out this community.”
 

Ty Free grew up entrenched in the small town ethos of rural Wyoming. “One of the first shows I ever loved watching was “This Old House,” said Ty, whose father owned a building supply company and who worked 15 years for a builder in Jackson, Wyoming. “I fell in love with the art of renovation.”
 

Amy Free was raised in Colstrip, Montana, daughter of a coal miner.
 

“I’m familiar with the migratory nature of miners,” said Amy. “In the 1980s when Butte mines weren’t doing so well, many people and families from Butte migrated to Colstrip. A lot of these same people eventually moved back to Butte, and Colstrip has that back and forth, and that connection, with Butte. Plus, Butte has that small town feel that some people think that Bozeman and other cities in the state don’t.”
 

Amy and Ty, parents of two children, share a strong commitment to savvy ideas and carrying out their own self-propelled aesthetic visions.  
 

“One of our differences is that Amy falls in love with things like windows, or roof lines, or the look of a deck,” said Ty. “With me, I’m looking at the quality of the siding, or the cracks in the foundation, and the overall integrity of the building. She takes finite, artsy strokes, and I take broader strokes. We’ve both got a love of architecture and a love of history.”
 

“On my end,” added Ty, “I’ve worked on a lot of commercial places in New York City, and Butte has such a very close resemblance to the history and the architecture and the design there. It has as much history as the big cities do. I think it is one-of-a-kind, like Chicago, with plenty of signifying beauty marks and full of flavor. And it’s a heartfelt community that comes across as having tough, strong people, but they are the nicest, most caring, giving, honest people I’ve come across.”
 

For many years the Frees had privately discussed the idea of working in Butte. But the Bozeman residents have been up to their necks in plaster, siding, salvaged marble, and ambition. Television network HGTV contacted the couple last year proposing a Butte-related renovation program with them as its hosts. The show’s parent company, Dorsey Pictures, was familiar with Amy’s work in another HGTV show called “Living Big Sky.”  
 

In the nationally premiered pilot episode airing last month, Amy and Ty enhanced an 1897 Butte Victorian, owned by Kathleen and Erik Nelson, desperately in need of modernization.
 

“I think at the start that Erik was skeptical and he didn’t know what to think of the whole thing,” said Ty. “The whole thing happened extremely quickly – not your usual courting time on projects. But now Erik and I have a bond and we’ve been through a lot, it’s like a marriage. We are all about preservation. We don’t want to re-write history, but we want to get these buildings to work better for the present.”
 

In the 1990s, Butte encouraged mining-related tourism, opening a roadside gift shop and charging visitors to observe the Berkeley Pit’s toxic copper waters. Since the early 2000s, Butte has tried to re-brand its image based upon its family-friendly summer music festivals and other more earsplitting proceedings such as Evel Knievel Days. A small number of tech companies have bedded down, and select engineers have infused life back into Uptown. There is an emerging filmmaking presence in the Covellite International Film Festival. Yet measured up to Billings, Bozeman, and Missoula, the financial core still looks anodyne: Uptown’s poverty percentage hovers at almost 30 percent.
 

Now Butte courts other positive, clean industries, including television programs such as “Buttetification,” which can only accrue wider interest in all things Butte.    
 

To make great things happen requires faith and intentionality, and perhaps even a little bit of good kismet (a decision regarding the program’s future is expected in late-July). Yes, there is still optimism in Butte; even amid the challenges of blight, there is optimism.
 

“Ty and Amy have truly brought and highlighted Butte to the rest of the world,” said Stephanie Sorini, executive director of the Butte Chamber of Commerce. “This is a beautiful old mining company town, with historic homes and good, kind, humble, hardworking people. The people of Butte have let Ty and Amy into their community, and building that trust and connection really means a lot to us.”
 

Amy and Ty said that they are likewise hopeful that they will once more be in front of the cameras, passionately lending a hand to Butte’s abundant structures, aiding in the recapturing of their faded agleam.
 

“We are off-the-beaten path type of people,” said Ty. “Visiting, seeing, and restoring buildings in Butte, it is like Disneyland for us.”
 

The “Buttetification” pilot re-airs July 8, at noon, on HGTV.


 

BrianBrian D'Ambrosio is a writer/editor living in Missoula, Montana. D'Ambrosio is the author of more than 300 articles and five books related to Montana history, people, and travel.

A Yellowstone Summer Saga

By Lacey Middlestead

Gushing geysers, steaming hot springs, dense forests, wandering bison, and towering waterfalls. Yellowstone National Park was not only our country’s first national park but is also one of the most unique. This past weekend, I ventured back through the park for the first time in over 10 years.
 

As a native Montanan, I often take places like Yellowstone and Glacier Park for granted because they are pretty much right out my back door and I’ve experienced most of their sights several times. And of course, they are the hot spot destinations for millions of tourists every year which makes them busy metropolises in the summer. But every once in a while it’s nice to revisit the natural treasures in my own state and be reminded of why I am so blessed to live where I do.
 

With my parents and husband all piled into the car, we began our whirlwind tour of Yellowstone bright and early Saturday morning. After a sugary breakfast of sticky buns from Ernie’s Café in the town of West Yellowstone, we made our way towards the park entrance. Several minutes of waiting later, we had our park pass in hand and joined the eager line of cars pulling out for their sightseeing adventure. Our first planned stop was historic Old Faithful.
 

As we wound through the dense forested park, we kept our eyes primed for any potential wildlife sightings. Along the way, we made several pit stops at some other hot springs where we noticed crowds gathering. The only way to take in the colorful and steaming pools of water was to walk along the narrow wooden boardwalks that meandered visitors safely around them. The colors of the water were fantastically vibrant. Shades of aqua, sapphire, and cobalt lightly stained each pool but the water was completely transparent.
 

I knew I had seen many of these hot springs as a child but it felt like I was seeing them for the very first time. Despite the dangerously high water temps of the pools, looking into each of them seemed to bring a sense of peace to my mind.
 

After lingering about the pools for a few minutes and snapping a few photos, our grumbling stomachs told us that it was time to head for a lunch stop at Old Faithful.
 

Upon arriving at Old Faithful, we were amazed at the mass crowd gathering around the viewing area. After realizing that the next eruption was expected within 15 minutes, we made a mad dash towards the crowd to secure our own spot in the back. As we huddled among the masses, I heard numerous languages being spoken and realized just how far many of the people standing beside me had traveled. For most of them, this was truly a once in a lifetime opportunity.
 

As more and more steam billowed out from the geyser’s crater, more and more cameras and phones stood at attention above people’s heads. Finally, true to form, steaming water shot skyward from the geyser to the cheers and hollers of everyone around us. Our first major landmark sighting was complete.  
 

After binging on pulled pork sandwiches in the cafeteria nearby, we crawled back in the car to continue on our journey. My husband directed us towards a sight that was to be a first for both myself and my parents: Yellowstone Lake Hotel.
 

After turning a corner, we first came upon the grandiose Lake Hotel dressed in a mellow shade of custard yellow. With colonial style architecture, immense white pillars and a lengthy veranda out front complete with rocking chairs, the hotel almost seemed out of place for such a rustic part of the world. Upon stepping through the front doors, I felt transported back in time to the days of the kind of luxury that existed on the Titanic. Light piano music plinked away in the background while I took in the airy dining area and large wooden bar just inside the entrance. With large front windows overlooking Yellowstone Lake, it felt like the perfect place to settle in and stay awhile. But alas, more sights awaited us.
 

The rest of the day involved a scenic overlook of Canyon Falls, a surprise drive by of a large bison herd complete with several wobbly youngsters, and a trip to the bear and wolf wildlife discovery center in West Yellowstone. By the time I finally kicked off my hiking boots and reclined back on our hotel bed, it felt like an adventurous week had passed rather than a single day. But in that one day I had the privilege of seeing some of the most sought after sights in the world. And I felt grateful for that.
 

My day in Yellowstone Park was a truly beautiful one and rekindled my love for a place that I had nearly written off as too touristy for local Montanans to visit. As a natural wonder of our state, Yellowstone is constantly changing and evolving and never ceases to amaze its visitors—be it their first visit or their 100th.

 

LaceyLacey Middlestead is a Montana native and freelance writer currently living in Helena, Mont. She loves meeting new people and helping share their stories. When she’s not busy writing articles for newspapers like the Independent Record and Helena Vigilante, she can usually be found indulging in her second greatest passion–playing in the Montana wilderness. She loves skiing and snowmobiling in the winter and four wheeling, hiking, boating, and riding dirt bikes in the summer.

 

 

 

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The Chance of a Lifetime

By John Grassy

On the Endecott Ranch near Ennis, cows are number one. From calving through weaning, and throughout the long, harsh winters in the Madison Valley, Janet Endecott’s Red Angus and Herefords receive the best of everything.


“We’re very particular about how we work our cows,” says Janet. “They come before everything else. We’ve got this operation set up so it works just right for the cows. In order to keep them happy and healthy, you need good land and water.”


The nexus for happy and healthy on Janet’s place is South Meadow Creek. Originating in the southern Tobacco Root Mountains, the stream meanders through the heart of the ranch’s main pastures. On days of extreme heat or bitter cold, native willow thickets – a rancher’s best friend, Janet says --  offer her cows shade or shelter from frigid winds; water from the creek irrigates the pastures; and at all times, there’s drinking water, the single most important nutrient for a cow.


They enjoyed a particular stretch of the creek, where they massed together, going in and out of the water to drink. Over many years their unimpeded activity had worn down the stream banks and made the stream channel broader and shallower. Their hooves churned up the stream bottom. They grazed all of the streamside vegetation, then grazed it again.    
“We bring the cows on to this place to calve, and when you’ve got more than 200 cows watering in one area during the winter and spring, it can cause quite a bit of damage,” she says. “I knew something needed to be done, but I didn’t know exactly what that was.”  


It was 2010, and Sunni Heikes-Knapton, Watershed Coordinator for the Madison Conservation District (MCD), was about to launch a new project on South Meadow Creek. With a grant from the Montana Department of Natural Resources and Conservation, the District would undertake an assessment of irrigation diversion structures on the stream.


“The creek often gets dewatered in summer,” Knapton says. “Some of the irrigation structures were primitive and highly inefficient. We thought if we could get new structures in a few places there might be a little more water in the stream.”
MCD also wanted to assess whether any irrigation structures impacted the stream’s natural functions. Knapton invited Pat Clancey, a fisheries biologist with Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks, for a tour. Clancey identified several irrigation diversions, including the structure owned by Janet and her late husband, Bob, which prevented the resident brook and brown trout from moving upstream. “There was enough of a drop in water level on Janet’s diversion that only a few of the fish were large enough to get up and over it,” says Clancey.


He also assessed the creek as it meandered through Janet’s pasture. He saw the cows’ favorite watering spot, the wide and shallow stream bottom, the eroded banks, the sedimentation, the lack of streamside vegetation. Talking things over with Knapton, Clancey offered an idea: along with upgrading irrigation works, why not make some habitat improvements? “Around Janet’s place, those rich soils are more prone to impacts from livestock. But a site like that is also very recoverable,” Clancey says. “It was a great opportunity to turn the situation around.”


When Sunni Heikes-Knapton sat down with Janet and Bob Endecott to present her ideas for improving the stream, Janet’s initial response was, “You want to do WHAT?!”


The stream corridor would be fenced on each side, creating a long, narrow riparian pasture of about four acres. Janet’s two largest pastures would be configured, north and south of the creek. Her cows would no longer drink from the stream unless they were in the riparian pasture – and they would only be in that pasture for a very short time in the fall. Instead of getting water from the creek, the cows would use water tanks, situated away from the creek, one in each pasture.

   
Looking back on it, Janet says her initial response was fairly typical for any rancher. But she was also co-chair of the Madison Conservation District. She understood the need to lead by example. Even as she said yes, “I was thinking I would get nothing out of it besides the off-stream water. I would be the nice person who made the stream better. But I wouldn’t actually benefit that much.”


And there was one other thing: Janet knew Sunni. They worked together. They respected each other. Janet had a good measure of trust in Sunni. The plan would certainly change the way she managed her cows, and she didn’t know how it would turn out, but if Sunni believed the stream would see benefits, Janet was willing to give it a try.    


The Madison CD developed a plan for funding the irrigation structure, as well as the water tanks, well and fencing. Through his work with PPL Montana and the company’s mitigation account, Pat Clancey assisted Heikes-Knapton in securing funds for the water tanks, well, pipeline, plumbing, fencing, and a hardened creek crossing. The well and water tanks were installed in November of 2011, the fencing in November of 2012.


The first spring after fencing, there were big changes along the creek. 


“All these plants were coming in that I’d never seen before,” Janet says. There were different grasses, and forbs, and what looked like new shrubs. Janet had never seen them because her cows grazed off the new growth as soon as it emerged. As the growing season continued, the grass grew thick and lush. The plant community matured and produced seeds, further enriching itself. Under the new plan, Janet would put her cows in the streamside pasture just once, in November, for three to five days. It would be one heck of a banquet, if short-lived.


If Janet and Bob had reservations about the streamside pasture, they had even bigger concerns about the new watering system staying functional in the winter. The Madison Valley is well-known for its wind, and winter wind chill values can drop well below zero and stay there for days. Each day Janet kept a close watch on the water tanks. Once again, she was surprised by what she saw.


Cows in general don’t want to be too far from their water. Under the old program, that meant they were never very far from the creek. But with water available any time in the tanks – and the tanks located farther out in each pasture – the cows were more dispersed. They were grazing areas regularly that in the past were grazed inconsistently. Their pattern of water consumption changed, too. In the past, smaller or less-competitive cows wouldn’t get water as regularly because they weren’t as good at navigating the crowd along the creek; they’d grow tired of waiting, or get pushed back in the line; the creek would freeze over and they would move on. With the herd spread out and open water available at all times, access to water was easier. 


“That has helped them nutritionally, especially in the really cold, nasty weather” Janet says. “There’s water any time they want, so they water more regularly.”


The tanks also eliminated some hard physical labor for Janet. In the dead of winter, she no longer had to visit the iced-up creek with a spud bar and chop out a space for her cows to safely get their water. 


“I had huge reservations about the water tanks freezing up in the winter, but with a good design and help from Dan Durham with the Natural Resource Conservation Service, the off-stream water turned out to be a major improvement. It was exciting to see,” Janet says. 


Without constant visits from the cows, South Meadow Creek is restoring itself. The wide, shallow streambed has begun to narrow and deepen, and the stream’s meanders are becoming more defined, creating pools where trout want to live. The steady increase in plant growth has stabilized the banks and halted erosion. After a couple of years, Janet was thrilled to see her best friend – willows – coming up in the creek bottom. They’d been there all along, trying to get a start, but the cows grazed them back. As the willows and other plants grow taller, fuller, they put more shade on the water, which helps to keep it cooler, another gain for the fishery.


Across Montana, Conservation Districts like the Madison CD work at the local level to promote and implement projects that benefit vital natural resources. The focus, says Sunni Heikes-Knapton, “is finding achievable goals – efforts that improve resources and help landowners succeed in their operations. We can help make change where there’s an opportunity. And it doesn’t have to be on a massive scale.”


One of the greatest assets for CDs is their grassroots organization. A conservation project on private land – and one requiring the landowner to alter the way they do things – depends upon trust. In a rural community, it’s far easier to trust someone you or your friends and neighbors know.


That trust is now expanding outwards. In 2015, Janet Endecott persuaded her brother to launch a similar project on nearby Moore’s Creek. A lot of Janet’s neighbors have stopped by to see her new pasture and watering system. “I can gently nudge people into thinking about a place where they could do a similar thing,” Janet says. “And I really stress it doesn’t have to be a huge project. If a lot of people each do one small thing to make the stream better where it flows through their place, it can make a huge difference.” 


“This project happened because of the credibility that Sunni brought as a watershed coordinator and the mutual trust that developed between Sunni and Janet,” says Pat Clancey. “Developing that trust is the key to getting a project like this off the ground. The landowner has to be satisfied with how the project works for them. Having seen a number of these projects, it can be a hard sell because people are used to doing things the way they’ve always done them. But in just about every project I’ve seen, the outcomes have been positive for every interest – the landowner, the livestock, the fishery, the stream.”

 

Written by John Grassy, Montana Department of Natural Resources & Conservation, Public Information Officer, and photographer, Eliza Wiley.