Montana Winter Cabineering
   ~Phil Knight

 
Winter can get long in Montana. The slush gets grey and dirty on the streets. Sidewalks hold hidden patches of treacherous ice. Clouds hang low over the valley, and days fly while the nights are long and dark. It’s easy to hibernate, binge on Netflix and eat too many Christmas cookies.

Maybe you need to get away from it all for a couple of nights, get out of town to a wild place with huge vistas, surrounded by snow-draped forests. Do some snowshoeing or skiing. Track a fox, watch ravens playing on the wind. Listen to the silence. I did my share of winter camping, freezing in an inadequate sleeping bag while my boots turned to blocks of ice. I’m over it. Give me a log cabin in the hills, stocked with wood for the stove and ready for an evening of cards and whiskey and offering a bunk to stretch out on. Yes, Virginia, there’s a cabin out there for you too. Thanks to the US Forest Service, you can rent your own hideaway in the hills, and it’s cheaper and quieter than your usual Airbnb.

Scattered across our regional national forests like the Helena, Lewis and Clark and Beaverhead-Deerlodge are a variety of rental cabins, some accessible, some remote, all rustic and cozy. Built mostly in the 20s and 30s, these ranger cabins originally housed local forest rangers and their families. Many of them had outbuildings such as barns plus corrals for horses, which were the main form of transport for the rangers back then.Now the “guard stations” have become popular with folks looking to stay in a remote location withoutthe hassle of tenting or the expense of an RV. Think card games, stew heated on the wood stove, and an adult beverage or two on the table. Outside your window the winter night sky is strewn with the diamond dust of stars. An owl hoots an incessant rhythm from a nearby grove of fir trees. Your dog is curled up by the fire. You stay up late with your friends, then crawl in your bag to dream of the powder skiing to be had in the morning.

The cabins come in a variety of sizes – most are suitable for a party of four, but some, like the Porcupine Cabin in the Crazy Mountains, sleep eight. Access to the cabins usually involves some skiing or snowshoeing in winter, with some like the Garnet Mountain Lookout, located atop a mountain at over 8,000 feet, requiring a serious trek. Others are close to the road, making for a more relaxing getaway. An example is the Window Rock Cabin. Built in 1940, it sits deep in Hyalite Canyon south of Bozeman, and isa favorite of winter visitors enjoying the ice climbing or backcountry skiing available in Hyalite. It’s only acouple hundred yards from the plowed road. There are a variety to choose from - twenty-six cabin just on the Custer-Gallatin National Forest, andtwenty four on the Beaverhead-Deerlodge! These snug little lodges are located all across Montana’snational forests. You can peruse cabins, check availability and make reservations at recreation.gov. The
cabins tend to be listed under “campgrounds.” Reserve early, because the cabins do tend to book up,
especially on weekends.

My wife and I have spent Christmases, New Years’ Eve, and other holidays with friends at thesewonderful shelters. We like to ski in and I will sometimes tow a sled behind me to haul extra boots, beer,a pot of stew and other essentials. The sled does double duty when we find a good snow-covered hill to whoosh down. The ambiance and access offered by Forest Service rental cabins is hard to beat. They’re pretty cheap aswell at $30 to $60 per night, plus a fee for the online reservation (about $9.00). And you get the whole place to yourselves! Some cabins have had all cooking and eating utensils removed due to sanitation concerns, so plan to bring your own cook stove, pots and pans, bowls, plates, mugs and tableware. The Forest Service stocks the cabins with firewood, and most have propane lanterns (bring a propane canister or two). Bring a small solar lantern or two as a backup – I have found the propane lanterns broken before. You’ll usuallyfind a splitting maul and hatchet to prepare firewood. Good protocol requires you to leave the cabin clean and organized, with plenty of split firewood, kindling and fire starter.

You can reserve cabins at recreation.gov. Happy cabineering!
 

Montana's Second Fall

    ~Doug Stevens

When it comes to fall colors, Montana maybe doesn’t have the famous maple forests of New England, but it is blessed with quite a color season of its own.  Because of its mountains, Montana provides different ecosystems at different elevations giving rise to many different species of color-changing plants and trees, rather than just one.  The effect of this is to spread the season of color out over many weeks.  Starting up high in mid-September with the huckleberries and mountain ash, then the aspens and, finally by the end of October, the west slope larch, with some tamaracks hanging on to their color into early November.  Although this year (2019) was quite different than the “norm”, the early fall weather is usually characterized by clear warm days and cool nights and mornings.  There can certainly be a lot of outdoor activities that can be pursued amidst all that color, such as, hiking/camping, bow-hunting, golf, biking, etc.  This is the time of year that makes it easy to feel blessed to live in Montana.

So that’s the first half of fall.  What about the second half – November through the winter solstice?  Now the weather isn’t as cheery and uplifting, clear blue skies give way to clouds and rain, at least on the west side of the state where I live.  Days become shorter and darker.  The once brilliant colored trees are now bare and the leaves lie brown and rotting on the ground.  This may be nature’s way of recycling nutrients back into the environment to give us Spring and Summer again, but for some of us, it is a little harder to have “fun” at this time of year.

Many Montanans do look forward to this time of year, of course, for its rifle hunting opportunities as Montana has a proud tradition of hunting.  However, even though we are probably a minority in our state, not all of us are hunters.  (I used to be, but haven’t hunted in years).  What is there to do until the snow comes and makes things bright again and opens up other recreational possibilities?

Since I have usually spent the earlier fall getting out hiking and photographing, this is the time I get out and get my firewood.  I know it doesn’t really make economical sense.  By the time one adds in time, fuel, wear and tear on one’s truck, it is probably cheaper per cord to just buy firewood from a woodcutter.  However, it is another activity to get outside into the woods as it improves mental and physical health.  Since it is rifle season, I do dress myself and my dog in orange – I don’t want my big brown lab being mistaken for a bear!  I also live close enough to Glacier National Park that, if a nice, sunny day does roll around, I can pop up there for the day.  Being a park, there is no hunting, so its nice not to have to wear orange, but as my dog is not allowed in the Park, she unfortunately has to stay at home.

This is also the time of year when gardeners harvest their last crops and prepare their gardens for winter, tilling under all the left over vegetation. Again, letting nature take its course in decomposing and processing these potential nutrients to allow life to burst forth again come spring.  Spring bulbs are planted and mulch is placed around more sensitive plants to protect them for the cold of winter.

In effect, this time of year is a season between seasons.  It is a time to tie up the loose ends from summer and early fall and get ready for winter.  It is a time of work and preparation and provides for an orderly transition to winter and all that entails.  That means both being prepared for the inevitable winter storms that will come (i.e., firewood, tuned up snowblower, etc.), but also prepared for the fun that a Montana winter can offer, such as skiing, snowshoeing, ice fishing, sledding, snowball fights, and generally getting out to frolic in the snow!  Let us never forget the fun and positives that each season can offer.

Winter: Montana’s Secret Season

   ~Sean Jansen

Tourists, visiting family members, conference travelers and Montanan’s alike flock to our state and frolic in the splendors and joys of summer. Camping, fishing, paddling, and hiking their way to help our economy. Embedding wilderness memories for their scrapbooks and Instagram, bragging to their friends about where they went.

In winter, the same process seems to work. However the actions are solely based off the joys from snow that blankets our ski resorts and mountains around the state. A similar number of tourists, visiting family members, and Montanans contribute to that economy. Only to the ski shops, resort, resort hotels, and coffee shops. But who ever said you couldn’t still hike? Couldn’t fish? Trail run, backpack; hell, go camping? I’ll be honest, there is nothing quite like a Montana summer with wildflowers blanketing the landscape and the warm air inviting you in to play. On the contrary, winter is certainly my second favorite.

Old man winter gets a bad rap. Yes, he is grumpy and cold and a vast majority of us love that for we get to wax up our skis and snowboards and slide down his angry bitter attitude. But he does have a soft side. One that does give soft powder, but also days on end where he isn’t in the mood to dump couple inches of snow and throw us in the ice box for a few days.

Fishing in Montana is a year round venture. Sure there are some days where you don’t want to put on those extra base layers. Don’t want to stand in the freezing river with steam rising from the cold water, or don’t feel like dragging that ice shelter over the frozen lake and start drilling. But there are days when the ground has thawed and midges dance on the surface of a near 50-degree day waiting to be sipped by that large brown trout.

Yellowstone’s visitation is out of control for most of the summer season, but what about winter? Check out the snowmobile and snow cat trips or slap on those cross country skis and cruise the Madison watching the swans and other creatures continue stirring like they always do. From Gardiner to Cooke City must be my favorite section of the park. With the wide Lamar valley and hundreds of bison roaming around unmolested by whatever the temperature seems to be. Open year round.

Hiking and running? Why not? Some days when the snow is thick and just recently dumped a few inches, you may need to bust our those snow shoes or cross country skis. But when the sun comes out and temperatures hover around freezing, the snow compacts and can easily be ran or hiked on. Some of the most popular hikes are the most splendid in winter.

The tranquility, peacefulness, and solitude are lost to those that think winter is a mountain resort only kind of attitude. Those that hunker down indoors watching television and over drinking coffee. Winter is the ultimate playground for any outdoor enthusiast and I beg any to get out and see for yourself. Some days I am a bit lonely watching those swans in the park, admiring the white-tailed deer and turkey along my favorite run, the sound of the river wrapping around my leg in complete solitude, or the quiet drive to a peaceful winter wonderland. You don’t have to take my word for it, but Montana’s secret weapon of a season is certainly winter.

Tips To Optimize The Little Time You Have To Workout

Nothing makes a workout program fruitful more than ensuring that you have your time well planned out. You’ll agree that we are living in a busy society, and life is increasingly becoming demanding now more than ever before. But you have to keep fit and stay healthy, and regular exercise is one of the most effective ways to ensure this. Nonetheless, you don’t want your workout schedule to interfere with your work, social life, and other activities.
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Now, you already know the importance of exercising to your overall well-being. But with your other pressing commitments, you may find it hard to hit the gym regularly. But let’s face it, you have some downtime left after work that if well utilized, can be incorporated into your workout timeline. You’ll also notice that it gets a bit tricky to work out during the cold seasons, where it makes sense to skip sessions or retreat from exercising altogether until the weather is more favorable. But amidst the various challenges, it can be a less daunting undertaking with a few expert hints. With that in mind, here are killer tips to optimize the little time to work out.

_{1. Invest In The Right Gear}

Now, whether you are working out during the cold winter months or the summer, investing in the right gear will motivate you to work out. The right training apparel will boost your brain to go the extra mile. You’ll also find yourself wanting to head straight to your nearest gym even if it’s to show off your new pair of sneakers blended with some fancy yoga pants. If you find yourself dragging at the gym a lot, it may be because of your choice of workout gear. One thing to also note is that during the cold season, you need to be well-clothed and protected from the harsh weather. This is especially the case if you are working out outdoors. Here are some handy tips for those working outdoors during winter:
 

• Don’t just dress warm, dress dry!

• Go for bright colors

• Protect your fingers as the other extremities such as your ears nose and toes

• Ensure you have good traction

• Always ensure to warm up fast

_{2. Sneak In During Your Breaks}

Now, if you find that going to the gym is getting in the way of picking your kids from school or running your errands in the evening, you can always opt to hit the gym during your breaks from work. But then again, this shouldn’t interfere with your work whatsoever, or else, your boss will be pissed and on your neck. While all this will be beneficial to your workout program, it may take a toll on your body. It’s therefore imperative to find a diet regime that supports your body, provides you with the energy to continue, and all the nutrients you require. For instance, a pre-workout before heading to the gym provides you with some of the most vital nutrients you require during your workouts. According to Ryan Bucki from Fitness Informant, it is also essential to pick you’re pre-workout supplement carefully if you’re looking for a pump that promotes the desired gains. You’ll also want to ensure that the supplement safe and effective, tastes good, has the right ingredients, and is of the best quality. It should also guarantee you value for money. 

_{3. Opt For Outdoor Activities}

To optimize the little time you have for your workouts, consider outdoor activities. While there are plenty of reasons to work out in the gym, sometimes it can get in your way, perhaps keeping you from enjoying the activities you love or spending quality time with your family. In addition to this, working out in the gym comes with a cost. But most people would be a bit skeptical about working out outdoors during the cold season. There are so many outdoor activities that can be incorporated in your workout program and that can be enjoyed by the whole family. So you really don’t need to restrict your workouts to the gym only. Activities such as skiing, hiking, and snowshoeing are fun and at the same time, these are easy activities yet very effective to those who may want to lose weight while having some fun with their families or friends. 

_{4. Avoid Commuting From Work} 

If you have a crazy schedule, you may have little to no time for your workouts. So why not turn your commute from work into a workout? Most people spend a lot of time waiting at the subway, time that can be spent working out. There are so many ways to work out on the go, including walking, jogging, running, biking, stretching, on the go side to side lunges, and taming the stairs, just to name a few. 

_{5. Set Realistic Goals} 

Most people at the onset of a new year will set fitness-based resolutions but will rarely stick to them. But for you to get the most out of your workouts with little time in your hands, you need to set your priorities right. In addition to this, you need to set realistic workout goals that are easy to stick to. Whether it’s to lose weight, gain muscle or simply want to stay fit, you need to set specific goals that can be accomplished even with a busy schedule. Here are some tips you could use:
 

• Consider accomplishing one goal at a time

• Own your goals

• Make your goals specific and time-bound

• Avoid setting your bar too high especially when starting out

• Find something that will drive you

_{6. Be Flexible}

There are so many ‘one size fits all’ work out programs out there but you need to know that not all will fit into your busy schedule. This is why you need a flexible workout program that suits your needs. Have a flexible workout calendar. Your calendar should not only include working out in the warm seasons but also during the cold winter months. While you can have a perfectly laid out plan, you should make room for life’s uncertainties such as bad weather, sickness, injury, change of work schedules, or absence. It’s important to have flexible training sessions, flexible performance goals, and a flexible training calendar.
 

And there you have it! The above tips will not only help you to optimize the little time you have for your workouts, but they will also help you to achieve your fitness goals. But then again, it all boils down to your willingness to adopt them, alongside realizing the importance of exercise to your overall well-being. 

Thompson Chain of Lakes State Park   
   ~Montana State Parks

Thompson Chain of Lakes State Park covers approximately 3,000 acres and stretches over 20 miles along Highway 2, halfway between Kalispell and Libby. 

Rappelling Into Trouble

   ~Phil Knight

It’s common wisdom in the climbing community that the most dangerous part of climbing is rappelling. Rappelling is when you slide down the rope in a (hopefully) controlled manner to get back down the cliff you just climbed. The problem is that if any part of the system fails, you fall. Most of the time when you are climbing, the rope is only there to catch you if you fall. But when rappelling, you are already hanging on the rope. So you don’t really have a backup.

Ice climbing is widely regarded as a crazed activity or fringe sport. If I mention it, people commonly say “I would never do that.” I started ice climbing in the late ‘70s with very marginal equipment. We climbed small frozen waterfalls in southern New England, almost always on a top rope, much safer than leading. Eventually I climbed some bigger waterfalls in New Hampshire then moved out West and started ice and rock climbing in the Rockies, even doing some easier ice leads. I never got too serious about ice climbing – it is indeed a dangerous sport – and kept it to a moderate level. But overall I loved it. There is nothing like the feel of sinking an ice hammer into a curtain of ice with a solid “thunk” and knowing you can hang off it.

One of my more challenging climbs was the Green Gully in Montana’s Pine Creek, in the Absaroka Range. At the time I was climbing with my friend Ted Wood who was willing and able to lead moderately hard ice climbs like Green Gully (WI IV*). We drove up Pine Creek to the end of the road and made the trudge up the climber’s trail to the waterfalls. Green Gully is a true classic, a beautiful wide green ice flow set between two walls of volcanic rock high in the Absaroka Range. Ted charged up the 130 foot ice flow, placing and clipping ice screws as he went while I belayed. Once he reached the top and anchored himself in, I followed as he belayed me from above. I was challenged by the steepness of the ice and physically and mentally pumped by the time I topped out.

Once we celebrated our climb, it was time to head down. Most climbs are only half over when you get to the top. Some climbs you can hike off, but you have to rappel down Green Gully. Ted had set an anchor and I clipped in, then we re-rigged the ropes for rappelling down. This requires threading one rope through the anchor point, tying the two ropes together with a secure knot then throwing both ropes down. Then you can rappel down both ropes. Once everyone is at the bottom you pull one rope to retrieve them both. Only the anchor point is left behind.

One common problem with rappelling is that the ropes may get tangled when you throw them down. Or they get stuck on a ledge or a tree. You can either pull them back up and try throwing them again, or the first rappeler can untangle them on the way down. You slide down the rope on a friction device attached to your harness with the ropes threaded through it, so you can control your descent with one hand and work to untangle the ropes with the other.

I was the first to descend the ropes from the top of the Green Gully. It looked like the ropes were a little tangled but not a big deal. I backed over the edge, crampons biting the ice, ice hammers dangling from my harness, and started rappelling down the vertical ice near the top. Looking down, I saw the ropes were actually pretty badly tangled. As I descended I could see I had a problem. The ropes had formed some kind of loop or big knot, which should not have happened. However, if I kept rappelling the ropes were going to jam in my rappel device. I would be stuck, and Ted would be trapped at the top of the climb!

I was getting nervous, realizing this could be a real mess. Looking around I found a small ledge of ice I could balance on while I figured out what to do. Starting to panic, I yelled up to Ted something about rappelling down to help me. Silence. He must have been thinking, what the heck is going on?? He could not rappel down while I was on the ropes! There was nothing he could do but hope I figured it out.

After a few minutes on my ledge, getting cold, my hands cramping, I realized I had several ice screws with me that I had removed while following Ted up the pitch. These are just what they sound like – metal screws that are threaded (and hollow) that you can turn into the ice to create an anchor point. I cranked one screw into the curtain of ice, clipped a runner to it and clipped myself to it. As quick as I could I turned in another screw and clipped to that one. Phew! I was able to lean my weight on this anchor and relax a little. I was safe from falling, but I still had to get to the bottom of the climb.

Now I had to untie from my rope. I did not like this at all. If I lost ahold of the ropes I was really stuck. I also had to unthread it from my rappel device, leaving me only the ice screws for support. Then I pulled up the ropes, untangled them, re-tied the knot at the end of the ropes (tied so you can’t rappel off the end) and tossed the ropes down, finally straight and true. After re-threading the rope in my rappel device, I was able to take my weight off the ice screws and finally rappel to the bottom. Terra firma never looked so good! After a half hour of struggling on rappel I was exhausted and soaked with sweat. Ted then rappelled down and removed my ice-screw anchor on the way. He was mighty relieved that I was able to extricate myself from my predicament.

Over all this was a strange event, and very spooky. I could not figure out how the rope looped around itself like that. It brought home the dangers of rappelling, and it was over a year before I dared to rappel again.

Note: WI IV is the difficulty rating of the climb. It means “Water Ice 4.” Ice climbs can go up to WI VII – extremely difficult and precarious. A 4 is considered moderately difficult.