Get To Know Flathead County

Flathead County has such depth and breadth, it’s hard for me to imagine how I can do it justice in a 1,300-word essay. Let’s start with the statistics. Created from the northern extent of Missoula County on February 6th, 1893, Flathead County was one of the first six counties created by the state of Montana not four years after the state was admitted to the Union. With a total area of 5,099 square miles, it is the third-largest county in Montana. Only Beaverhead and Phillips are larger. The 2023 US Census estimates that 113,679 people call it home. That number puts the county in fourth place after Yellowstone, Gallatin, and Missoula. The largest city and county seat is Kalispell, and the county number is 7.

Two federal highways cross Flathead County intersecting in the center of Kalispell. US 2 runs from Everett, Washington to Houlton, Maine. In Kalispell it is known as Idaho Street and it crosses Main St., otherwise known as US 93. 93, in turn, runs from Wickenburg, Arizona to the Canadian border where it becomes British Columbia 93, then Alberta 93 through Banff and Jasper National Parks.

The Great Northern Railroad, building its way west, reached Kalispell in 1892, and built their depot at the north end of downtown. In 1904, the railroad moved its main line north to Whitefish, leaving Kalispell to be served by a spur line only. Today, much of the original track bed is part of a rails-to-trails system that runs from Kila in the west, through the center of Kalispell and continues to Somers on Flathead Lake. A proposed extension would add a line along the old spur to Columbia Falls. The old depot now anchors a city park and houses the Chamber of Commerce.

One mile south of the depot, the Flathead County Courthouse marks the southern end of Main Street—at least the historic southern end. One of two such courthouses in the state, Flathead County splits US 93 with northbound traffic passing the eastern end of the building and southbound traffic the western. The other such situation is in Choteau, where the Teton County courthouse splits US 89.

With a 2020 population of 24,558, Kalispell is Montana’s seventh-largest city. It is a shopping hub for all of northwestern Montana and draws shoppers from Alberta and British Columbia as well. It is the largest of three cities in the county, the other two being Whitefish and Columbia Falls.

In addition, the county is home to numerous unincorporated “census designated places.” The largest of these is Bigfork at the northeastern end of Flathead Lake. Bigfork has a thriving arts community and is home to several art galleries and fine restaurants. Since 1960, the Bigfork Summer Playhouse has been presenting professional stage performances of major Broadway musicals. Personally, I’ve enjoyed professional theatre in San Francisco, London, Helsinki, Paris and national touring companies in Spokane. I would put Bigfork right there with the best I’ve seen. Their 1978 production of Sondheim’s A Little Night Music was the best theatre I have seen, bar none. Oscar winner J.K. Simmons in the role of Count Carl-Magnus didn’t hurt.

Across the lake and just a bit south, Lakeside is a thriving community and home to Blacktail Mountain, the only ski resort I know where the lodge is at the top of the mountain, and you need to ride the chairs back up to the parking lot. It is also home to Legacy Bike Park which attracts mountain bikers from around the world. Just north of town is the Flathead Lake Alpine Coaster—think of a cross between a toboggan and a roller coaster. Plus there are plenty of merchants ready to get you on the water in a boat, a kayak or a paddle board.

More lakeside adventures await a few miles north in Somers. Originally a company town milling lumber for the Great Northern Railway, today the town is a charming place to visit at the northwestern corner of Flathead Lake.

Heading west from Kalispell on US Highway 2, after ten miles you reach Kila and Smith Lake and a further ten miles gets you to Marion and Little Bitterroot Lake. The Great Northern Railway gave birth to both communities and abandoned them in 1940. Today the Great Northern Historical Trail connects Kila to Kalispell on the old railbed, and plans are in place to continue to trail on to Marion.

Northeast of Kalispell, several communities are spread out along US Highway 2. Seven miles beyond Columbia Falls lies Hungry Horse, a community that got its start when the US Bureau of Reclamation needed to house workers building the Hungry Horse Dam on the South Fork of the Flathead River.

Just beyond Hungry Horse is the community of Martin City, and a few miles further on, Coram. In time you reach West Glacier, formerly known as Belton. This is where you must decide if you want to continue east on US 2 or turn north and enter Glacier National Park. Be forewarned. During tourist season, you now need to make a reservation to enter the Park. During the off season, the only road that crosses the park, Going-to-the-Sun, is closed due to the heavy snow buildup that blocks the highway. Only rarely is the highway clear beyond Lake McDonald Lodge.

Should you continue east on US 2, roughly thirty miles further takes you past Essex. Essex is one of those places I love to take visitors. The Izaak Walton Inn resembles all the larger Glacier Park hotels—and for a good reason. All the old lodges in the park were built by the Great Northern to encourage travelers to take the train and stay in railroad-owned hotels. The smaller facility at Essex was built to house railroad workers. Today, the structure houses a small hotel with an in-house restaurant. The food is always good, and the scenery can’t be beat. And these days, should you wish, you don’t have to stay in a 100-year-old lodging. Rent a locomotive or a caboose instead.

Back in Columbia Falls, turn north and take Montana Secondary 486 for an hour’s drive to Polebridge. Often considered one of the most remote places in the lower 48, Polebridge is little more than a store to stock up on baked goods and sandwiches before heading into the northwestern part of Glacier. If you plan on visiting Bowman or Kintla lakes, you’ll drive right by the front of the Polebridge Mercantile. I recommend a stop, especially for their fresh-baked pastries.

There is so much more to Flathead County, but let’s end with the recreational activities that abound here. Both Flathead Lake and Glacier National Park are partially within Flathead County, and an easy drive from Kalispell. Fifteen miles north of Kalispell, Whitefish is home to both Whitefish Lake and the Big Mountain, western Montana’s premier ski resort. Golfers have their choice of six courses. As I mentioned before, the Great Northern Historical Trail provides bikers and hikers miles of pavement to see the county up close. And if you like camping with waterfront access, Flathead County is dotted with smaller lakes perfect for swimming, fishing and boating of all kinds. For recreation, it’s hard to beat Flathead County.

And getting here is easy as well. Driving, US 2 and 93 are your east-west and north-south arteries. Amtrak has scheduled stops at Whitefish and West Glacier, and if they know you want them to, they’ll even stop at Essex. Glacier Park International, airline code FCA, is one of Montana’s busiest airports and has lodging and car rental agencies adjacent. In summation, you have no reason to avoid this beautiful part of Montana.